Why is a Western Digital hard drive so much more expensive than a Toshiba? Are they that much better?

When it comes to hard drives, I always buy Western Digital because they have a full 5 year warranty. I've had Seagate and Toshibas fail, but so far, so good with Western Digital drives.

When it comes to solid state drives, I always buy Samsung Evo drives because they get the highest ratings. I just did a build for someone though where I used a Western Digital SSD. Hope it performs as well as their HDDs!

Thanks Draclvr. I should have specified that I'm looking at internal hard drives at the moment but also noticed the price difference with external hard drives.

At the moment I'm on eCollege PC, but I actually had my eye on the Corsair Vengeance 5180 Gaming PC reviewed by PC Magazine too.

What do you think about Sound Cards? Do I really need one? I have always had one but truthfully, in the computer I have now, I don't even know if the sound is coming from the sound card or the on board sound. I've never been able to figure it out. I know I have seen a game here and there that specifies needing a sound card. ??

And I was talking about internal drives too. Have fun shopping!

I recommend a lot of the eCollegePC computers for the customer service alone. A friend got a computer from them about 5 years ago. She'd forgotten that she had ordered an SSD in the computer and wondered why it didn't show up. Within hours, she was communicating with Mike who explained that back then with the SSDs were so expensive, they were using something called RAID to link the very small SSD with her HDD to use as a cache drive. It just makes things run faster, but you would no longer "see" the SSD in her drives list. I said, "Imagine getting that kind of explanation from HP or DELL five years after a sale!"

Yes, the computer I have now is from eCollege and I have emailed Mike a few times this past year about my fans and memory, as well as about future purchasing when I inquired about the video cards. What I don't like is the "building" part. I don't know what most of the stuff is or does and it just gets confusing sometimes. Really I am mostly concerned about the video card, hard drive space and memory. I start with one of his stock gaming computers and change a few things.

What do you think about a Sound Card?

That depends on how into premium sound you are and if you have some really high end speakers to take advantage or it. If you just enjoy good sound with a good set of speakers, then the on-board sound is great. I have a minor degree in music and use the on-board sound. Please feel free to post your choices and get some input here.

Did you see what I wrote above about the sound card? I don't think I need one except if some game requires a stand alone card.

Well, I just don't know. As I start "building" the price keeps going up and up and now I've just been looking at it too long tonight. I can't think straight anymore.

Just out of curiosity, did you look at that Corsair and what do you think of it? https://www.pcmag.com/roundup/256884/the-best-desktop-computers

Pros and cons?

My eCollege build was costing more.

And, when I looked a couple months ago at eCollege they didn't have any AMD Radeon card options so I pretty much resigned myself to having to get a Nvidia GeForce, but now they have some Radeons.

Decisions, decisions.

Gasp! That Corsair Vengeance is one high end gaming BEAST! That one is meant for all the high end Shooters, RPGs etc.

I have never seen a game that required a stand alone sound card.

Raedon, Nvidia... both are just excellent. You will not go wrong with either one.

Mostly, just consider what KIND of gaming you intent to do, add in your budget and then go shopping.

" eCollegePC computers for the customer service alone"...… Yep they are GREAT, that friend would be me. Mike spent quite a bit of time with me.. emails... me taking pictures of the inside of my computer and sending them to him until he figured out what was going on. I mean he responded within minutes! Never have I seen such good customer service! Mike was wonderful.. what patience he had.

When a modern game says it needs a "sound card" that doesn't necessarily mean a separate card. The onboard sound that's built into modern motherboards is a lot better than onboard sound on motherboards from the 1990's to early 2000's. Back then you often had issues with background noises, hiss, etc., and a separate sound card usually sounded clearer.

Last time I compared onboard sound with a sound card was some years ago. I could tell that the sound card gave clearer, louder sound, with maybe some sound details not coming through on the onboard sound. But it wasn't something I'd notice while playing a game.

There were also some Windows 95/98/ME/XP games that took advantage of 3D sound (EAX or A3D) in the sound card's hardware. 3D sound is something that has to be done in software now because Microsoft has blocked hardware audio acceleration in Vista/7/8/10. If you want to know more about 3D sound in software, check the Creative Alchemy video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLj9obfMppk

I don't know of any adventure games that use 3D sound, but if you play older "Darkside" games you might be interested in the Creative Alchemy software, and would need a sound card that supports it.


The eCollege tech support is probably worth it.
If the computer started acting up, how much attention do you think Corsair would give you?
Also you may not need specs as high as that Corsair, depending on what games you play.


That's good.
flotsam is using a Radeon RX 580 with 8 GB video RAM and seems to be able to play everything.

Winfrey

Jenny, thanks for that information about the sound cards. I know I've seen once or twice a game that said it required, or maybe just recommended, a sound card. I definitely don't remember what games though.

I know I certainly don't need all the fancy lighting, nor the gaming keyboard and mouse that come with the Corsair. The computer does interest me though which is scary.

I do prefer to get more than I need in a computer though because I am not good at upgrading, neither on my own or getting somebody else to do it (as you all know from various prior posts of mine).

Regarding the video card, the fact that eCollege has some Radeon cards now is good BUT means I have to again rethink the issue that I had already resolved in my mind. The GeForce card that is in the computer I was "building" does rank higher than the Radeon card I would exchange it for and I would have to pay more money to change it so, even though I like Radeon cards I don't think it is worth doing that as I am really mostly just set in my ways (same problem with not getting a sound card since I've always had one). Make sense? I just have to argue with myself a little and then give in to the cheaper options I think, as I will most likely never notice any difference.

I do have 3 more questions though at the moment.

1) Is 16GB of memory enough going forward (keeping in mind I don't upgrade)? I know for sure that the 8GB in this computer is horrible. I would go for 24GB but the choices are 16GB or 32GB which sounds like too much.

2) I have Microsoft Office 2016 with Outlook. Is that something I can keep and download on a new computer or is it just a 'one computer' type thing and is compatibility with Windows 10 an issue. I guess this is 2 questions. Is it something I can have on the 2 computers and is it compatible? Anybody know?

3) Doesn't Windows 10 have it's own email program? The only reason I had upgraded the Microsoft package I bought with this computer was so I could get Outlook because I was worried about losing my MSN mail. I really don't care for the Outlook program. I really like my (paid for) MSN mail but I'm not sure it is the best program to have as my default email.

Most modern games require that you have sound.
They don't require that you have a separate sound card for it.
I've never encountered a Windows game that wouldn't work with onboard sound.

If you want a sound card, and your speakers are good enough, you may hear a difference with a separate card though. And as I said, if you want to use something like Creative's Alchemy program to enhance 3D effects you'll need a sound card that supports it.


It seems expensive to me, but you know better than me which games you want to play, and what features you'd simply enjoy having even though you don't "need" them.


Nothing wrong with having headroom. How much computer you need depends on what type of games you want to play and whether you want to play at maximum settings.


If you currently find 8 GB to be "horrible" you should probably go for 32 GB.
Are you sure it's lack of RAM that's causing the "horrible" though?
As opposed to something like the video card or too much bloatware running in the background?
I know some games (Quern and Xing) have 8 GB as "recommended" but they shouldn't need more than that. Maybe some Darkside game benefits from more though.


If it came installed on your current computer, it's probably meant for a single computer with no transfers.


Maybe Draclvr knows this one.

Originally Posted by oldbroad
2) I have Microsoft Office 2016 with Outlook. Is that something I can keep and download on a new computer or is it just a 'one computer' type thing and is compatibility with Windows 10 an issue. I guess this is 2 questions. Is it something I can have on the 2 computers and is it compatible? Anybody know?
I read somewhere that Microsoft was going to stop supporting old Office and only supporting the Office 365 when it stops supporting windows 7

My ears won't notice any sound difference and even when I had a good speaker system, I almost always use headphones (cheap headphones).

The Corsair is expensive but the eCollege is turning out even more expensive so far.

I do believe the 8GB of Ram is just not enough. Remember how I posted about my memory going through the roof when I'm online? Right now my physical memory is showing 68%, It will go down to 44% or so when I go offline. I do have a LOT of programs/games installed in my computer.

The Microsoft Office with Outlook is something I purchased separately from Microsoft, not what came installed on the computer (which was also paid for).

Thanks to all of you for your help!!

Oh, another thing. I use a ethernet cable for my internet BUT if at sometime I were to not want to or need to use the ethernet connection, would that be a problem with most computers? I know the Corsair said it has an ethernet port and comes with a wireless dongle.

You'll still get better volume with a separate card when using headphones.
That's been my experience anyway -- that separate cards have louder maximum volume.


People have had problems with gluttonous web browsers eating up all their memory.
You can do a search for

web browser uses too much memory

It's kind of ridiculous that a stupid web browser eats up more than a high end game, but web browser developers are all "all your memory are belong to us."


Programs don't take up memory when they're not running.
They take up hard drive space, but not RAM.
You can check Task Manager to see if something is running that you don't know about.


Then you'll have to check what you bought.
You may be able to install it on up to three computers or it may be for only one.


That won't be a problem. If the computer doesn't come with it you can always add it via an expansion slot or USB.

+_+_+_+_+_+_+

Note that that Corsair Vengeance 5180 is sort of a cube shape, and is fatter than most tower cases.

I really need to upgrade my RAM - I'm still running 8 GB, but I'm able to play games like The Witcher 3 on the highest settings with no problems.

So I put this one together at eCollegePC for $1394

Intel Core i7 8700 3.2Ghz (4.6Ghz Turbo) 12MB Cache Six-Core
Stock Intel LGA1151 Heatsink and Fan
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming (Intel Z390, HDMI, 3xPCI-E, 2xM.2, 6xSATA, 4xDDR4, Wifi)
16GB (8GBx2) DDR4 2666Mhz Memory Lifetime Warranty (Major Brand)
1TB Solid State Drive SATA3 Inland Professional
12X LG Blu-ray Player / 16X DVD+/-RW DVD Burner SATA
8GB Radeon RX 580 GDDR5 PCI-E DVI/DP/HDMI (Major Brand)
Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64bit (Includes DVD + COA)
Fractal Design Focus G Black (2 5.25, 2 3.5) 2 Fans, Audio/USB 3.0
650watt Corsair CX650 80 PLUS CERTIFIED
Onboard 1Gbit LAN included
Onboard HD 7.1 Sound included
Wires and Cables run behind case and tied up for maximum airflow
3 Year Parts and Labor Warranty
Standard processing time: Ready to ship within 5 to 7 Business Days


The more expensive processors have a "K" behind them. That means they are unlocked so you can mess with overclocking... something you don't need. I just put that higher end ROG (Republic of Gamers) Strix motherboard in a build I did with my grandson. REALLY liked that board. It also has built-in 802.11 ac WiFi. 16 GB of RAM is more than enough and something you can always add down the road. Also put in a 1 TB super speedy solid state drive - love mine - and a Blu-ray DVD player/burner. Don't know if you use Blu-ray disks, but it's there if you want it. Then added in that Radeon RX580 video card and upped the power supply to a Corsaid 650 watt. For another $50 you can get the Radeon 590. The Fractal Design case is a great one, but you can always look at other cases.

So, there is a good starting point... I will tell you the sound from the on-board sound on that Strix motherboard is incredible. Grandson is going to have to up his speakers to get the most out of it.

If you purchased that Office, you should have more than one installation available... you'd have to look at the terms that came with it. If you don't like Outlook, you really didn't need to purchase it. You can use the paid for MSN email on any computer you own if that's what you like. I use the free Outlook.com, Gmail and the old version of Microsoft Live Mail that is no longer supported. Right now I'm using all three on three different drives and systems.
Windows 10 does not come with its own email. It does have the Mail App which you can use to bring all the your email accounts into one app. When I open my Mail App, I have almost a dozen email accounts there! I monitor the email accounts for several groups at our American Legion, plus one for Mystery Manor, plus my Outlook, Gmail and other email. They are just all in one place in the app.

Okay, thank you Winfrey, Jenny, and Draclvr. I am in overload mode right now and need to review some of this information, look some more, and think.

Just one more word about the email. When I bought this computer I had the Office stuff that you can get from eCollege but it didn't include Outlook. I don't care to have Outlook but couldn't buy just Outlook. They "upgraded" me somehow though supposedly at a cheaper price than buying Office 2016 since I already had all the spreadsheet/word/power point stuff. (Something like that anyway.) One of my problems with the email was that I got so confused reading about what they were no longer going to support and not knowing/understanding what it all was. To me, Outlook, MSN, Live Mail, Hot Mail, ALL the same to me! So, I thought I better purchase the Outlook email even though I can access Outlook mail whenever I want without a purchase. They are a little different to use but I don't know why they have the two different Outlooks. (I don't even know if I'm making sense with this because that is how confused I am with it.) Please, don't try to explain. I don't really care anymore and will NEVER get it.!

My main concern is to have a "default" email for instances like if I try to email through Gameboomers here, it wants to open my "default" email and will now open the Outlook ap. I used to use MSN as my default email but got worried it was going to be cancelled/dropped/no longer supported so I was afraid to make it my default email in this computer. Also, I had to open that ap myself; it would not automatically open like Outlook will if I try to send email through Gameboomers. But the Outlook that I can access from my browser by going to outlook.com or something is not the same as the purchased Outlook and I could not set it as a default.

It takes a good while for my MSN mail to open and load but it is still the best email program I have found yet (for me).

Anyway, I need to clear my brain for awhile before I get back to looking at this stuff further!

Your brain is definitely on overload! I will just say this - none of them are the same at all! Some are web based email and some are "clients" which are programs on your computer. When your brain is rested, let us know and we can try to make it all work for you.

Thanks!

I want to throw one more thing into the mix. If you are looking at getting a high end gaming computer, you will have to be careful where you put it. I remember you said you have your current computer in very tight space in a closet with potential overheating problems. With a high end gamer like you're looking at, that would be the death of it! It will need to have wide open spaces to dissipate heat.

The review of the Corsair Vengeance Gaming PC 5180 at
https://www.pcmag.com/review/364774/corsair-vengeance-gaming-pc-5180
gives its dimensions as "13.8 by 10.9 by 15.7 inches (HWD)."

So it's 10.9 inches wide, 13.8 inches tall, and 15.7 inches deep.
As Draclvr says, you'd also want to leave plenty of room on the sides and back for air circulation if you get this particular computer.

If you're going to keep the new computer in a closet, you might want to look for one with parts that are known to run cooler rather than faster -- or find some way to cool the closet.

Yes, thanks. I am trying to figure out a place higher up. Need to rearrange/clean some stuff which is one of those things I never get to doing. That is actually one thing I like about the Corsair though Jenny. I worry about a regular tower standing anyplace the cats might knock it over. A little bigger base and less height. I think the computer I have now was kind of "high end" too when I bought it.

All of the ATX form factor cases will be nice and solid too. The Fractal Design case on the eCollegePC I put together is 8" wide x 17" high x 18" long. I have a Rosewill ATX case and my 80 pound Bloodhound bumped into it running through the house and it didn't budge!

Thanks. I'll take a look at the available cases. I usually don't care what the case looks. With the computer I have now and what I was building the other day, I just started with one of the computers they showed and added/changed a few things. I don't worry about mother boards and fans and whatever else. I just leave that to the computer people. When I bought this one I emailed Mike to just make sure there were enough fans since I don't know about that stuff.

I suggest you take a look at the one I put together for you and my accompanying comments. It gives you a good starting point and with the exception of the video card is a better computer than the Corsair for nearly $1,000 less. You just said you preferred Radeon cards, so that's what I put in it.

The one thing I don't like about the Corsair is the Micro ATX build. There is nothing wrong with a tiny little motherboard, but they are much harder to work with.

Okay, thanks.

Finally felt okay enough to look at this stuff again. I do have a couple of more questions.

1) Can one monitor be connected to two computers at the same time as long as the monitor has different connector types? (Only using one computer at a time of course.)

2) Other than the Blu Ray part, what is the difference between the 24X LG SATA Dual Layer DVD /-RW/CDRW and the 12X LG Blu-ray Player / 16X DVD +/-RW DVD Burner SATA?

Can you use both to back up or burn a game? Play a game? Watch a movie? Listen to a music CD? I know Blu Ray movies are different; I just don't know about all the other stuff, mainly the +/-. I know RW is Read/Write but still could use clarification.

Thanks.

You sure can use two computers with one monitor. You just need to be able to switch between the two connectors either with a button on the monitor or with the monitor driver software.

This explains the differences between the DVD formats. If you don't watch Blu Ray movies, then you don't need that capability.

https://www.lifewire.com/different-types-of-dvd-recorders-2482957

Sure. You can also have the computers on at the same time, but will have to use your monitor settings to go between them.


Unless you have Blu-Ray discs, I'd go for the DVD drive. I've heard some complaints about Blu-Ray drives that don't read DVD's very well.


A Player can only play. It looks like this one can play Blu-Ray movies but is supposed to be able to both read and burn DVD's.

Well, thank you both but I didn't learn anything, I'm sorry to say.

Regarding the monitor, I was hoping it would just be as easy as connecting it to the 2 computers and when I turned one on it would work. I have never known how to do anything else with any monitors I've ever had. I don't recall ever having software or instructions with any of them.

As for the other, can this: 24X LG SATA Dual Layer DVD /-RW/CDRW do this: Back up or burn a game? Play a game? Watch a movie? Listen to a music CD? And now I have to add the question of what type of discs are required to use in it? (Sorry Drac but the linc you provided made it harder for me to know.) Well, in researching further, I guess this is the same thing I have in this computer I'm using now and I believe it does all of the above but I've never actually tested it out. As far as I know, I burned some games to disc but whether they work or not, I don't know. And, I've never yet tried to watch a movie or listen to a music CD. I know it works to play games.

So, maybe my questions are answered.

If only one computer is on, the monitor will switch to that one.


Yes to all of them, just like any other DVD burner for a computer.
If your movie is on a Blu-Ray disc, you'd need a Blu-Ray player.


Either DVD+R or DVD-R for burning.

Jenny, thank you! I guess I just don't feel sure about things if they aren't spelled out and nowhere in the description does it say "burner" like it does in the Blu-Ray one. I should have thought to look at the one in this computer sooner. Then I wouldn't have had to ask about that since e-College seems to be selling the same one as they did 4 years ago when I bought this computer. I probably asked the same question back then.

Regarding the monitor, then I would NOT have to "switch between the two connectors either with a button on the monitor or with the monitor driver software" as long as I just have one of the computers on (which is what I originally asked)?

No, you would "switch" between them if you had both computers on. You are only using one at a time whether you have both computer on at the same time or not.


The listing of support for DVD /-RW/CDRW means they are "recordable" and "re-writeable."

Drac, if the monitor is hooked up to 2 different computers and I turn 1 of them on, it will work, yes?

Then I turn that computer off, and turn the other one on and it will work, yes?

If you could just play stuff but not burn stuff, what would it say?

Thanks.

Yes, the monitor will use the computer that's on automatically.

I assume each computer will have its own keyboard and mouse.
If you want to use the same keyboard and mouse for both computers, you should probably consider a KVM switch to avoid having to attach the keyboard and mouse to the other computer every time you switch computers.


There's no one description. They might call it a DVD drive or a DVD player or they might call it something else. A drive like this wouldn't be sold on a new computer.
If you want to be sure, look up the model of the drive or ask the seller.

I use a KVM switch and it enables me to use one mouse, one keyboard and all three of my current computers - with just the one monitor.

Thanks once again Jenny. I am going to get another keyboard and mouse and will probably use it, but will keep it around for an extra if not. I do dislike having to attach and unattach and that is why I am trying to be certain about the monitor. I don't think I want to get a new one right now. At any rate, I do have an extra one around if I end up needing it but it is smaller. It can certainly be used to fill in though.

I tried a KVM switch one time but couldn't get it to work between my '98 and XP.

I still can't figure out where exactly I'm going to set this new computer up though.

Mine works with my Win98, WinXP and Win7 machines but it was expensive.
For me, though, well worth the cost

To some degree that depends on its shape.
If it's one of those cube-like ones, it will fit a different spot than a tower.

Just make sure this one is not set up in a confined space since it is going to have higher end components.

Back to looking again. I have been looking today at these new AMD Radeon cards, not that I actually understand any of it. I do have a question regarding the article in the link below. Somewhere between the 2 pictures it says something about RIS and not working with games with DX10 and DX11. Is this referring to Direct X 10 and Direct X 11 and that games that use these cannot be played with these video cards or is this something totally different? Or is it just that RIS that won't work with Direct X10 and Direct X 11 games but the games can be played with these video cards?

I hope I'm making sense.

https://www.eurogamer.net/articles/...xt-review-head-to-head-with-nvidia-super

The way I read it, it's the RIS (Radeon Image Sharpening) feature that doesn't work when playing DirectX 10 and 11 games. That doesn't mean the cards won't play those games -- just that they won't use that particular RIS feature with DirectX 10 and 11 games. No older ATI cards use RIS because it's new, and no Nvidia cards have or will have RIS. RIS isn't required to play the games.

Thank you Jenny! As I keep reading, that's how I'm understanding it also. This review here states the RIS is only incompatible with Direct X 11 games but works with Direct X 10 games. As long as the games play, that isn't an issue for me.

https://www.pcmag.com/review/369171/amd-radeon-rx-5700

What do you think of the card? What do you think about buying a card that is this new and not so "tested" yet? All the info I've seen says they run hot and are loud.

Even better.

And the author of that 2nd article said, "I asked AMD about this, and the company says it's "looking into DX11 compatibility in the future."
So even that may not remain an issue for RIS.

And he also said RIS works better and has better compatibility than Nvidia's image sharpening technique. He said



Of course I don't have any experience with a card that new, and can't tell you how loud it is, but it looks like a good one. The RIS feature may turn out to be a useful feature when playing older adventure games which use DirectX 9.

And here is a critical thing to consider... Assuming you are upgrading your current video card, do make sure a new one is compatible with your motherboard and that you have a powerful enough power supply to run it.

Thanks for your input Jenny!

You too Drac, but this is not for upgrading. I'm still trying to purchase a new system. I still haven't decided where it's going to go and I still can't decide on some things. I thought today I might come to some decisions but then this new card showed up on eCollege and I've been looking again all day (at the card and other things), so still no decisions. My brain is tired again!

The thread about Egypt II got off subject so I'm moving back here.

A couple more questions.

I'm planning on the new Radeon AMD RX5700 video card. I believe it requires a 600 watt power supply. Is 650 watt okay then or should it really be higher, like 750? (I understand 650 is higher than 600. I guess I am asking though if it's better to not get exactly what it requires so to speak.)

This video card says it has a Display Port and a HDMI connection. I was trying not to buy another monitor and was hoping to hook this up to the same monitor my XP is hooked up to but I'm not sure that it will work right or whether it is a good idea or not.

The AMD RX5700 says: Video Card connections:

Display Port: 1.4 with DSC
HDMI: 4K60 Support

I don't know what that all means.

The monitor I was hoping to use is a Dell from January 2011. I was just sitting on my kitchen floor with a magnifying glass in one hand and a flashlight in the other trying to see what connections it has and what information I can give you. This is it: Dell LCD Monitor Model ST2320Lf It has 3 connectors: DVI-D, D-Sub (which is what I have the XP hooked up to) and HDMI (I guess from what I found Googling it is a Type A HDMI IN). Further information is: AC 100-240V 50/60 Hz 1.5A (1,5A)

With a HDMI cable, will this work? (I don't know what the 4K60 Support means.)

One other note, the D-Sub and the HDMI connections are right next to each other and I'm not real sure if both can be used at the same time as I'm not sure there is enough room for both connectors to fit side by side. I don't have a HDMI cable to test it out.

I know you try to be as thorough as possible and I do appreciate that but please, the most simple answers will be helpful.

The "minimum" wattage for that card is 600 watts. I would get at least a 650 or 700 watt. I prefer more "head room" rather than less.

D-sub is the old VGA port. If the monitor has an HMDI port, then you should be able to use it. You will need to purchase an HDMI cable. HDMI just means that it is high definition and can also carry sound.

The 4K support means that if you have a 4K monitor, this video card will support it. 4K is VERY high definition and not a lot of people can support it because their internet connection is not good enough. I have a 4K TV, but my measly WiFi isn't fast enough!

The other numbers you gave just say that it is an AC type of current which is what we use in the US.

This very old monitor is not going to give you the kind of video that the AMD video card can put out. To be honest, if you've got another $100 laying around, an investment in a new monitor would be worth it. Seems a shame to have such an awesome video card and an old monitor that would not take advantage of it. But if you're trying to save a few bucks, it will be fine

Simple is better, oldbroad!

OY!

1) I added something to my original post while you were posting. (About the closeness of the 2 connections on the monitor.)

2) The monitor doesn't say 4K; the video card does. I don't know if the monitor will support the video card. That is why I was asking if it would work. I have no idea if my internet connection would support that at all.

3) I don't want 2 different monitors on my table. Can you direct me to a monitor that will work with the video card I want AND that I can connect my XP to? (And the proper cables.)

Closeness doesn't matter as long as the connectors fit next to each other.
If you wanted to you could leave the D-Sub attached to the old computer and attach the new one to the HDMI.


It will work with your older monitor at a lower resolution, but it won't produce 4K on a monitor that can't support 4K.


Not sure what you mean. Your network connection won't affect your video card resolution unless you are playing an online game that requires extremely high resolutions, and I don't know of any.


Your current monitor would work.
If you want a new monitor that can do 4K, you'll have to find one that your old computer has a connection for. Does your XP computer only have a D-sub connection on the video card or does it also have a DVI connection?

Here's a D-Sub
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SVGA_port.jpg

Here are examples of DVI
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Dvi-cable.jpg
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:DVI_Connector_Types.svg

Hi Jenny. Thank you for very direct, simple answers.

What I meant about the closeness of the 2 connections is that it doesn't look like the heads of the connectors will fit together in the space. Not sure how to say that, but like how you cannot use two outlets next to each other on a power strip because the plugs are too big and block access to one of the other outlets on it.

My comment about the internet connection is because of what Draclvr wrote: "4K is VERY high definition and not a lot of people can support it because their internet connection is not good enough. I have a 4K TV, but my measly WiFi isn't fast enough!"

I'll have to check the XP out. I'm not really sure what kind of connection(s) it has.

EDIT: If I'm looking at the right spot on the XP (which is next to where the monitor is plugged in) there is a S-OUT and a AV-OUT. Don't know what those are.

Also, regarding the power supplies, eCollege has 650 or 750 and some higher. No 700. Which would you think is better?

HDMI cables are pretty slim. At least mine are. If you have one, try plugging it in next to the other connection on your monitor. I don't know of any monitor where you can't attach the cables to connectors that are next to each other.


I think Draclvr is talking about a situation where she'd be using Wi-Fi instead of a cable to connect the 4K TV to the video card.

Most people who are enthusiastic about 4K are young people with perfect vision and who think they can see a difference between regular 1080p (1920x1080 resolution) and 4K.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution

There are YouTube videos explaining why people can't actually see in 4K. I know I can't.


Well, if it only has a DVI connection you don't want to get a monitor that only has D-Sub and HDMI. Make sure you know for sure which connector type you need.


Get the 750.
Like Draclvr said, it's good to have headroom. The power supply will usually last longer if there is headroom.



Look at the plug that's plugged into the monitor. That's the one you'd use if you got a new monitor. It may be D-sub, but could be DVI.
S-out might be S-video out, which might go to a TV. Does it look like this?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Close-up_of_S-video_female_connector.jpg
AV-out sounds like it's one of those circular RCA jacks, also not something you'd attach to a computer. Does it look like this?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Composite-cables.jpg

So, the question is... are you planning on using this monitor on BOTH computers at the same time and they will be sort of next to each other?

Okay, thank you.

So, the XP only has the D-sub monitor connection. (Yes Jenny, that is what those other connections look like.)

Drac, preferably I will have both computers hooked up to one monitor but only be using one computer at a time. Just don't want to have to keep changing the hook up. (Discussed this somewhere earlier in this thread.) I will use 2 different monitors rather than have to keep changing it out but I really don't want to do that either.

750 watt EVGA SuperNOVA G3 modular 80 PLUS GOLD CERTIFIED
or
750 watt EVGA SuperNOVA P2 modular 80 PLUS PLATINUM CERTIFIED ??

It's standard for a monitor to automatically switch to whichever input it receiving a signal. So if you shut one computer off and turn the other one on, the monitor will automatically change to the computer that's on.


Both have 4.5 stars out of 5 at Amazon.
SuperNOVA G3 at Amazon
SuperNOVA P2 at Amazon

That's a good setup. Some monitors even have a switch that lets you switch between monitors even if they both are on.

If I buy a new monitor, do I have to get one that says 4K for it to compliment the video card?

Also, why do the monitors list operating systems? Don't they work with Windows 10?

I actually like this monitor because all the connectors are on the side, rather than on the bottom where you can't see them AND the brightness or whatever buttons are all right on front. The ones on the monitors I have now are not where I can see them or know what they are so they never get used. And I like the USB ports on it. But it doesn't show Windows 10 or 4K.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PB238Q-...1568682581&s=electronics&sr=1-13

(I'm just looking. I don't know. Getting tired and overwhelmed again.)

If you like this monitor, then just stick with it! Just keep in mind that you are using a high end video card with a very old monitor.

And if you DID decide to get a new one, then no, unless you plan on using 4K, you don't need to get a monitor that can use it. Like Jenny says, it's mostly for the young crowd who think they need the best of the best!

This is the one my friend just got. It has both a VGA (older analog port you are using) and an HDMI port. But your old one may be just fine for YOU! In fact, if you like it, then just keep using it!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVL2D2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No Drac. I didn't mean I like the monitor I have. I meant I like the one in the link (until I start looking at reviews of course). Both the monitors I use now are fine but very hard to get to connections and any monitor buttons.

Display Port: 1.4 with DSC or HDMI: 4K60 Support So neither of these connections mean I need something special?

I'll probably just stick with what I'm using for now as long as it will work. I'll just have to buy a HDMI cable. I knew I should have bought the 2 pack when I bought one for this monitor. Then I'd have an extra now.

Yeah, that would be convenient for connection. I don't think I would like all my cables sticking out of the side of the monitor though.

If you stick with the old monitor, it doesn't have a display port connection. As long as it has HDMI, you'll be OK.

Yep. I think that's the plan. Stick with the old monitor for now and buy a HDMI cable. I was actually hoping to try the display port connection as I was reading that they are better.?

This monitor with my Win 7 has the cable connections on the back but the one in the kitchen with my XP and soon to be Win 10 have the cable connections on the lower edge of the monitor which is why I had to sit on the floor to look at them. I pulled the monitor to the edge of the table and got underneath it more or less. Not very convenient! And neither has good monitor setting buttons or whatever they are/do. I just don't use them.

Whew! All day on this again but at least I do think I know what I'm getting now. It is so exhausting to me though.

I've also been looking at some different stands/carts to try to raise the new computer up a little higher off the floor but most that I see are probably going to be too small. I think I still have one extra stand on wheels that might work but I was looking at this one that had adjustable height that I could bring it up a little higher but it looks like it might be too narrow. I even looked at little dollies and plant stands. Has to fit where I want it and also be okay for the computer. No real luck though. I think I'm going to put the XP on top of the table once I move my non-working printer off of it. The XP is not too big so will be better up there than the new one but I am still not really sure about how the set up is going to work.

THEN, I have to hope I can get my internet hooked up somehow. The equipment I have now is 8 years old and I keep losing my connection. Not losing service; just my connection. I hope I can just get new equipment and I hope I can figure out how to set it up. I really don't want anybody to have to come in my house and I keep worrying that they are going to tell me they can't connect me for some reason! Then I'll have a new computer and nothing to do with it.

Would anything like these work? I have something similar to the second one. Mostly, so I can move it so I can vacuum under it.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=computer...mp;tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_i82eawwp8_p

Thanks Drac. Amazon is where I've been looking. That first one in the second row is the one that is height adjustable but may be too narrow between those bars, and I think it says it only supports 19 lbs??? though I think some reviewer said different.

I've looked at quite a number of them already. Is yours that kind of X shaped one then? The ones I have now are like the third one in the second row.

This one? It says it supports up to 60 pounds.

Adjustable Height Computer Cart

Mine is more like this one.

Computer Dolly

Yes, that one. I swear somewhere I saw 19 lbs which I did think sounded strange. Must have mixed it up with one of the many others I looked at.

I would not mind a dolly like that if I could find one in the right size, for both my space and the computer. The one pictured in your link is only 15.7 inches long. Most of the cases are 18 to 21 inches long. And I haven't measured the space where I'll put it since I haven't seen one to buy yet.

I have quite a large ATX form factor case and it is only a little over 17.5" long. About the longest the large ATX cases get is 18". A 21" case would be one of the absolutely giant EATX cases made for massive water cooling systems. Mine does hang over about an inch on each end. No biggie. I just want to be able to roll it away so I can clean under it.

Is this the right cable to buy to connect to my monitor? Male to male?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8SSD...316-9ee2-1087ae69c7a0&pd_rd_wg=pHC6X


I bought this one before but can't tell what is the difference other than price (and maybe that male to male?).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019EHU8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes you'd want a male-to-male HDMI cable for between a monitor and a video card.

Male to female would look like this
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H8ZI8/qid=1569973672

You'd probably only want a male-to-female HDMI cable to use as an extension cable -- if your cable wasn't long enough.

Thanks Jenny.

Now, I need some advice/opinions. This is hard for me to explain so it's going to be kind of long.

I first got DSL/U-verse internet in 2011. I have a router and modem. I read the instructions and figured out how to set it up myself in my other Windows 7 computer and then somehow hooked this windows 7 computer to it also.

After less than a year I thought something was wrong with the modem (what the real problem was had nothing to do with the modem) and I called AT&T and they sent me new equipment. I never used this equipment because I figured out what the real problem was. So I am currently using equipment from 2011 and have an extra set of equipment that is just as old but not used.

Around 2 years ago I was losing my connection a lot, mostly in certain weather. AT&T didn't want to believe there was a problem on the line in the alley but when my phone had so much static on it that we could barely hear each other, they came out to check it. They kept telling me I needed new equipment, but sure enough the line was exposed somehow and rain and wind were causing problems. It was fixed and worked fine for around a year or so. Then I started having problems again but I couldn't connect it to the weather.

I've been living all this year with this problem of losing my connection. I have to unplug the modem to let it cool down and then plug it in again. Mostly these days it only stays on for an hour or so. Some days it will stay on though for 10 to 20 hours (very rare). I don't know why it varies so much. I tried the other unused modem (but not with the other unused router). The modem never connected to my computer and I didn't know if I was supposed to do something in the computer or what and was afraid to mess around with it for fear of totally losing internet. I've been looking into buying a new computer all year so thought I might as well wait to get the internet fixed when I get the new computer because I don't know if I will know how to hook it up anyway.

Well, I ordered the computer last week. Today I called AT&T to ask them to send me new equipment. Before I felt they were pushing it but now they won't just send it. They have to send somebody out to look at my current equipment and my lines and I don't know what all, or why. I could barely understand the woman and found myself getting very frustrated. I first started to say no to a service call but then the thought of having to call back again (trying to get through the machine to a person and then that person is in billing so then you have to wait for a tech and then you can't understand them and they don't listen to you) made me say ok to a service call, but now I'm having second thoughts again which is where I need your advice/opinions.

Should I let the person come out and see what they say and maybe have to have them back out again after I get the new computer? Even if the computer is here when they come, I do not believe it is even going to be set up yet.

Should I cancel the appointment (providing I can get through to somebody) and wait for the new computer and try to use the old but unused equipment to see if I can figure out again how to set it up and see if it works? I know I don't want to try to hook up the connection I have now since I do know it does not work well.

I'm sure this all sounds stupid to you but I am really concerned about this. I just don't know which way is better. I just wish they would have sent me new equipment and I could have seen whether or not I could figure it out with the new computer.

Yes, yes, yes... please allow them to come out and get you hooked up. You should really not be using equipment that is that old. If your modem is overheating, that is definitely NOT normal. You really need to let them come out and sort this out for you.

If they can come out and get everything working for you once and for all, it should matter what computer is connected to it. Turn on a new computer and allow it to connect... enter any password if needed and you're good to go. I've done this so many times for other people.

So, you think I should let them come and see if I can get my internet fixed up now even though I won't have the new computer hooked up yet?

Just let them fix it for this old computer and then worry about hooking up the new computer when I'm ready?

Absolutely. Let them sort out your issues. It will be SO much easier to hook the new one up if you do.

Okay. I was just thinking it might be better to start off fresh on the new one.

But, this "Turn on a new computer and allow it to connect..." won't just happen. I do not have wi-fi or wireless. I'll have to set up a connection somehow like I did in this computer 8 years ago. Not sure if I'll be able to do that.

So, your modem isn't WiFi, correct? And the new computer doesn't have a WiF adapter, correct? If it's the computer, that's easily remedied with a USB WiFi adapter you can get at Wal Mart. But if you are intent on having a wired connection, then that's even easier... just connect an ethernet cable from the computer to the modem. Done. No passwords etc.

I currently have a wired connection and am assuming it will stay that way.

When I set up the internet in 2011, I set it up on my other Windows 7 which no longer works. But I did have to make some kind of network connection with this computer using a USB key (I think) and I'm pretty sure there was a password involved. It did not just plug in and work. Unfortunately, I don't really remember HOW it worked.

Yeah, since there is no way to know what it was, it's hard to tell. I have a WiFi router and I have a USB WiFi adapter on my desktop. I set up my WiFi router with a password. My computer "sees" the WiFi network and I enter the password. It connects and I tell it to connect automatically and that is the last time I have to enter the password.

Whenever anyone comes here and wants to connect to my network, they just plug in and enter the password and it works.

Well, I just went online and cancelled the appointment. I may try the other equipment I have or I may not but I will feel better having the new computer set up before I have AT&T out here. I will need a chance to see what Windows 10 looks like first.

Maybe if/when I call back I will get somebody who will listen to me and who I can understand.

My biggest fear is that I will not be able to have internet service for some stupid reason and will have wasted a LOT of money on a computer that won't be of any use. It is one of the things I was worrying about all year while looking at computer components. I am not excited about this computer at all because it has been already, and will still be, so much work. I hope someday when it is all set up with all my stuff and everything works, I will be able to enjoy it! I still don't know exactly where it is going.

Why would it be so much work? And why wouldn't you be able to have internet service? I'm kind of puzzled. Now, if you continue to use equipment that overheats, you definitely may end up with no internet.

I'm going to guess that the USB key contained software to set up the connection between the router and the modem. Router and modem settings normally include a password. But once everything is set up, you don't need that password to connect one or more computers to the router if you're using a cable.


You don't want to connect a computer directly to the modem without that router in between. The router should already be set up to automatically connect to any computer that is attached by an ethernet cable. So you have to either use DHCP (automatic connection) or, if you use a static connection instead of DHCP, you have to tell the computer what IP number, what gateway, and what DNS server to use. Normally the only reason to use a static connection is if you're operating a server, so by default a new computer will be configured to use DHCP when you're connecting with a cable.

You should be able to connect as many computers to the router as it has ethernet ports. Or if your router only has one ethernet port, you can connect an internet switch to the router, like one of ***these***. A switch doesn't require any special configuration.

+_+_+_+_+_+

Considering your trouble with maintaining a connection, you might be having a problem we used to have where I live. Our phone lines (the lines in our neighborhood, not specifically on our property) were old and weren't capable of sustaining the bandwidth that AT&T was advertising. We had to change our service to slower bandwidth to prevent it from disconnecting. I think it was 28mbps that we started with and we had to go down to 12mbps. Eventually AT&T switched to fiber in our neighborhood and the limitation went away, but while we still had old-fashioned copper wiring we weren't able to get faster than 12mbps. A steady connection at 12mbps is infinitely better than a connection at a faster speed that is disconnecting all the time.

Of course if your modem is actually heating up, it should be replaced. They aren't supposed to get hot and that may be why your connection is disconnecting. But old copper wires also slowly get worse, so it's something you should ask the AT&T guy about when he comes to check your house -- whether using a slower connection would improve stability.

There is no benefit whatsoever to waiting until your new computer comes before having someone from AT&T come out to check your connection. The new computer won't magically work with a bad connection.

Well, I very probably did something wrong but I DID use the USB key and I believe a password on this second computer connection, not just on the original computer set up.



I didn't try to connect direct to the modem. It was hooked up to the router and all lit up properly, but no connection apparently with my computer.



I feel it is the equipment now. What annoys me is that AT&T tried to push it on me before when that wasn't the problem but now they won't send me new equipment without somebody coming out here. I am not going to try to hook this connection up to the new computer but what good is it going to do to have AT&T out here when I don't even have the new computer set up. If they fix something it will only be on this computer and then I still have to try to figure out how to connect the new computer. Maybe they will bring the equipment and set it up for me. That is what I was told 2 years ago. That somebody (probably) has to set it up for me. Ideally, they will just send me the equipment and let me try to figure it out myself. I can always call them back out if I need help with it.

Draclvr, I just find the whole process, physically and mentally exhausting as most things in my life are these days. Like I've said before, what seems easy to one or even most people is not always so easy for another.

Sorry, I messed up my replies to the quoted stuff so they are mixed in there.

I guess I just feel so bad that this is difficult for you and I can't help! This is the point I was trying to make... From Jenny who said it much better!

The benefit is to my peace of mind. Tackling one thing at a time. Trying not to overwhelm myself.

Then that's good enough right there!

You probably logged into the modem and router settings when you used the software on the USB key.
The software may make setup easier, but it also obscures what you're actually doing and where settings are being held.



Did you use the software on the USB key to make sure your router could communicate with the "other unused modem." If the router and the modem aren't set up to communicate with each other, you're not going to get to the Internet. Also if the modem can't maintain a stable connection over Internet because of bad wires in your neighborhood, it wouldn't matter if you did go into the router and modem settings and make sure they were set up to communicate with each other.


They may have learned by experience. The new equipment may be more difficult to configure because of increased security, and they've had too many problems leaving configuration up to the customer.


If they actually fix the problem, it will definitely NOT be "only on this computer." It will be fixed and working on every computer connected to your router. If your router/modem is set up and working properly, and your wiring is adequate, all you'd have to do is connect the new computer to the router with the ethernet cable. Everything should work automatically. You can put up with bad service until the new computer arrives, or you can wait until the new computer arrives and is set up. The difference is that the longer you wait, the longer it will take before they can diagnose your problem and fix it.

If they replace your hot modem and you still have problems with disconnecting, and the wiring in your neighborhood is old, remember what I said before about asking about slower Internet speeds.


I would guess setting up routers and modems is not easy for most people. Which is why AT&T wants to send someone to your house instead of just sending the equipment.

No, I did not know to do that and didn't want to mess around too much for fear of losing my connection permanently (you know, until somebody would come out).



This didn't seem to be the case for me when I set up this computer that I'm on now (though as stated maybe I did something I didn't really have to do with the USB key and password). If what you are saying is true, then I can still just connect the ethernet cable from the current router to the new computer and I will have a internet connection (though I will still lose connection if it is my modem that is bad). I guess I may try to test that once the new computer is set up. OR, maybe with the unused but still old equipment (router and modem together) if I can figure it out again. Then I can go from there.

Yes, getting this done quicker sounds good but I cannot deal with the problems of setting up the new computer and worrying about the internet at the same time. I need to do it step by step.



I think this is true that they believe people need the help but that is all the more reason I'd rather have the new computer set up so they can just do it on there. They did not say though that they were sending new equipment with the person, just that they needed to come out and "look" at everything. Much as I dread doing it, I will call back after I see what's what with the new computer.

If you connect the new computer to the old equipment, you will have the same problems you are having now. This is not dependent on which computer is connected, but rather on old malfunctioning equipment.

Yes, I understand that Draclvr. I mean just to SEE if it connects but not to keep it connected to this old equipment. If, however, I am able to connect the unused older equipment, I would leave that connected to see how it goes; find out whether it also has the same problem or not, and then go from there.

Is the new computer ONLY for Internet and not for games?
Have you already ordered it?
I remember at one point you were interested in a squarish one.

The computer is for everything. Internet and gaming. That's basically my everything. No internet would basically mean no gaming though as you need internet to download the games.

It is actually out for delivery today.

I hope you like your new computer, oldbroad. Fingers crossed that things work out well for you without too much hassle.

And please feel free to contact me through email for any assistance with Windows 10. I can do Windows 10 in my sleep and have helped at least 7 people get started in it.

How exciting!
Hope you can get it set up quickly so you can play.

Thank you Marian, Draclvr, and Jenny!

I will certainly update you!

Maybe you're not, but I'm kinda excited!

How's it going?
Did your new friend arrive as scheduled?

I received the computer yesterday but haven't even opened the box yet. I'm still clearing my kitchen table and hoping I might be able to put it there. I was going to put the XP there but may just put this one there.

Also, still waiting for the cable for the monitor hook up. I ordered it Tuesday. It's supposed to be here by 8:00 tonight but the tracking info still doesn't show it shipped. I do not like the way Amazon does stuff now. I prefer the days of FedEx 2 day shipment.

Cable NOT received. Was going to Amazon to complain but apparently at most latest time it should have been delivered they updated the order to "delayed". I'm telling you, Amazon has gotten too big for their britches.

I live out in the middle of nowhere, relatively speaking, and Amazon does an amazing job of getting things to us here quickly - we even get next day delivery sometimes which I never thought would be possible. Depending upon where you are located and numerous other factors, though, I understand that your mileage may vary.

When you do open the box, oldbroad, I am interested in hearing about your new computer.

Same here with Amazon... I live out in the country and the only time their next day or 2 day delivery has failed is when a third party seller doesn't ship quickly. I always try to make sure items and "fulfilled by Amazon."

I'm also anxious to hear about the new computer!

Apparently you get better service from Amazon if you live "out in the country."
I live in a town and have none of the advantages of living "out in the country."

This year Amazon's service has gone down the cr@pper.
If you have "Amazon Prime" and buy an item direct listed as "in stock" and coming from Amazon with 2-day service, it can take anywhere from one day to two weeks or more to receive the item.

I bought two of an item. Because the "Amazon" listing said they only had one in stock, I made sure to buy from one of the sellers who didn't have that limitation. So what happens? I am sent the one from Amazon instead of the seller I ordered from, I'm charged for two when I only receive one, never receive the 2nd one, and have to contact their "help" to be sent the second one because they have no option on their "problems with your order" page for missing items or being sent the wrong number of items.

I'm still waiting for a refund on a damaged item I returned two months ago. I've used their "help" four different times trying to get the problem worked out. Apparently the customer service people don't have the access to do their jobs. I first asked for a replacement, and a week later nothing has arrived. I contact Amazon help and they say I'm down for a refund instead. I don't receive a refund and I contact Amazon help again. This person can't tell if I was sent a replacement or a refund, but tries to help. First I get an email saying I'll be refunded some strange amount of money that's roughly half what I paid for the item. I contact help again to say it's the wrong amount. The rep sort of sighs and asks how much refund I want. I say I want the amount I paid for the item. I receive an email saying I'm receiving the correct amount of refund, only for a completely different item that I purchased that cost four times as much. Who knows if they're expecting me to return that item. Amazon is a mess, and if you have to wait a couple of extra days for an item, just be glad nothing worse happened.

I've actually given up on items that were "delayed" but still listed as "in stock" on the Amazon page with the item. I've had more luck cancelling the original order after two weeks and re-ordering the item (which shows up on schedule two days later). I think their website software is bugged, along with who knows what else behind the scenes.

Amazon desperately needs competition.

Wow, Jenny, your experiences are certainly nothing like mine.

And in the last year I have called Customer Service three or four times and all was A+ in my book in terms of responsiveness and resolution of the issue.

I also have Amazon Prime and everything has arrived when it was promised.

I wonder why the disparities.

Jenny, THANK YOU! I know I have complained about Amazon here before and I know I am in the minority regarding them, but I have certainly noticed them going down hill as they have been growing too big. The last time I ordered from them I had trouble with the receiving part too, that was more to do with the Amazon drivers, which is why I really just preferred how they shipped a long time ago before they had their own delivery drivers and facilities all over the place.

Actually, I did have another problem one time with an item clearly showing in stock but they didn't ship it and told me it was not in stock. I cancelled that order and ordered from a 3rd party seller. I've never had any problems yet with the 3rd party sellers but you have to pay the shipping.

The cable sells and ships from Amazon and shows I can get it tomorrow if I order within 12 hours, however, the email that I received this morning has no update for shipment date; just that it is delayed. I also have considered cancelling and reordering. Will think some more about that.

Is "chatting" the only way to contact customer service now? Can't I just email them?

Wow, I think I'm glad I live in the country! I've had to return 3 items and all I had to do was print out a label and either take it to a UPS store in town or for a large item - a damaged TV - UPS was here the next day and picked it up for me! I was immediately refunded the amount upon pickup, not even having to wait for them to receive it.

Like Marian, I wonder what the reason for the disparity is!

What you describe is exactly my experience, Drac, the only difference being when I was returning something they always came and picked up the item right at my front door, and not just large items either. And the refunds were initiated right after the pickup.

The only difference I can see is that we don't get Amazon drivers or trucks where we live.

Well, imagine you returned your item and didn't receive either the replacement you asked for or a refund. And when you logged into your account and looked at your purchase history, it claimed the item had not been returned and the address you were given to return the item to is not attached to the item in your purchase history. And when you try to get Amazon help to sort it out, they claim to do so, and then you get an email with a partial refund on a completely different item from the one you returned.

I've already received one automated email saying the item had not been returned and wouldn't be refunded, and had to contact Amazon help over that yet again.

Amazon's system is all messed up. If anything goes wrong, it just cascades and they have no way to fix things because the reps aren't given those options. The rep told me flat out there was nothing she could do to fix the mess that had been created in my Order history and I still have no idea if I'll ever actually see a refund for this damaged item they sent.

That's just terrible, Jenny. It is hard to believe we are even talking about the same company.

I just ordered a different cable, the same as I ordered 4 years ago for this Windows 7. I tried to cancel this first order but they say they cannot cancel it. IF it does ship, I guess I'll just have an extra cable. I won't even bother trying to return it. For the price they charge for Prime now, it really isn't worth it to me but for some reason I just haven't cancelled. Maybe next time the renewal comes up if I can catch it in time.

Wow.. that's horrible. I agree - it's hard to believe we are even talking about the same company!