Hard Drives

Why is a Western Digital hard drive so much more expensive than a Toshiba? Are they that much better?

When it comes to hard drives, I always buy Western Digital because they have a full 5 year warranty. I've had Seagate and Toshibas fail, but so far, so good with Western Digital drives.

When it comes to solid state drives, I always buy Samsung Evo drives because they get the highest ratings. I just did a build for someone though where I used a Western Digital SSD. Hope it performs as well as their HDDs!

Thanks Draclvr. I should have specified that I'm looking at internal hard drives at the moment but also noticed the price difference with external hard drives.

At the moment I'm on eCollege PC, but I actually had my eye on the Corsair Vengeance 5180 Gaming PC reviewed by PC Magazine too.

What do you think about Sound Cards? Do I really need one? I have always had one but truthfully, in the computer I have now, I don't even know if the sound is coming from the sound card or the on board sound. I've never been able to figure it out. I know I have seen a game here and there that specifies needing a sound card. ??

And I was talking about internal drives too. Have fun shopping!

I recommend a lot of the eCollegePC computers for the customer service alone. A friend got a computer from them about 5 years ago. She'd forgotten that she had ordered an SSD in the computer and wondered why it didn't show up. Within hours, she was communicating with Mike who explained that back then with the SSDs were so expensive, they were using something called RAID to link the very small SSD with her HDD to use as a cache drive. It just makes things run faster, but you would no longer "see" the SSD in her drives list. I said, "Imagine getting that kind of explanation from HP or DELL five years after a sale!"

Yes, the computer I have now is from eCollege and I have emailed Mike a few times this past year about my fans and memory, as well as about future purchasing when I inquired about the video cards. What I don't like is the "building" part. I don't know what most of the stuff is or does and it just gets confusing sometimes. Really I am mostly concerned about the video card, hard drive space and memory. I start with one of his stock gaming computers and change a few things.

What do you think about a Sound Card?

That depends on how into premium sound you are and if you have some really high end speakers to take advantage or it. If you just enjoy good sound with a good set of speakers, then the on-board sound is great. I have a minor degree in music and use the on-board sound. Please feel free to post your choices and get some input here.

Did you see what I wrote above about the sound card? I don't think I need one except if some game requires a stand alone card.

Well, I just don't know. As I start "building" the price keeps going up and up and now I've just been looking at it too long tonight. I can't think straight anymore.

Just out of curiosity, did you look at that Corsair and what do you think of it? https://www.pcmag.com/roundup/256884/the-best-desktop-computers

Pros and cons?

My eCollege build was costing more.

And, when I looked a couple months ago at eCollege they didn't have any AMD Radeon card options so I pretty much resigned myself to having to get a Nvidia GeForce, but now they have some Radeons.

Decisions, decisions.

Gasp! That Corsair Vengeance is one high end gaming BEAST! That one is meant for all the high end Shooters, RPGs etc.

I have never seen a game that required a stand alone sound card.

Raedon, Nvidia... both are just excellent. You will not go wrong with either one.

Mostly, just consider what KIND of gaming you intent to do, add in your budget and then go shopping.

" eCollegePC computers for the customer service alone"...… Yep they are GREAT, that friend would be me. Mike spent quite a bit of time with me.. emails... me taking pictures of the inside of my computer and sending them to him until he figured out what was going on. I mean he responded within minutes! Never have I seen such good customer service! Mike was wonderful.. what patience he had.

When a modern game says it needs a "sound card" that doesn't necessarily mean a separate card. The onboard sound that's built into modern motherboards is a lot better than onboard sound on motherboards from the 1990's to early 2000's. Back then you often had issues with background noises, hiss, etc., and a separate sound card usually sounded clearer.

Last time I compared onboard sound with a sound card was some years ago. I could tell that the sound card gave clearer, louder sound, with maybe some sound details not coming through on the onboard sound. But it wasn't something I'd notice while playing a game.

There were also some Windows 95/98/ME/XP games that took advantage of 3D sound (EAX or A3D) in the sound card's hardware. 3D sound is something that has to be done in software now because Microsoft has blocked hardware audio acceleration in Vista/7/8/10. If you want to know more about 3D sound in software, check the Creative Alchemy video here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLj9obfMppk

I don't know of any adventure games that use 3D sound, but if you play older "Darkside" games you might be interested in the Creative Alchemy software, and would need a sound card that supports it.


The eCollege tech support is probably worth it.
If the computer started acting up, how much attention do you think Corsair would give you?
Also you may not need specs as high as that Corsair, depending on what games you play.


That's good.
flotsam is using a Radeon RX 580 with 8 GB video RAM and seems to be able to play everything.

Winfrey

Jenny, thanks for that information about the sound cards. I know I've seen once or twice a game that said it required, or maybe just recommended, a sound card. I definitely don't remember what games though.

I know I certainly don't need all the fancy lighting, nor the gaming keyboard and mouse that come with the Corsair. The computer does interest me though which is scary.

I do prefer to get more than I need in a computer though because I am not good at upgrading, neither on my own or getting somebody else to do it (as you all know from various prior posts of mine).

Regarding the video card, the fact that eCollege has some Radeon cards now is good BUT means I have to again rethink the issue that I had already resolved in my mind. The GeForce card that is in the computer I was "building" does rank higher than the Radeon card I would exchange it for and I would have to pay more money to change it so, even though I like Radeon cards I don't think it is worth doing that as I am really mostly just set in my ways (same problem with not getting a sound card since I've always had one). Make sense? I just have to argue with myself a little and then give in to the cheaper options I think, as I will most likely never notice any difference.

I do have 3 more questions though at the moment.

1) Is 16GB of memory enough going forward (keeping in mind I don't upgrade)? I know for sure that the 8GB in this computer is horrible. I would go for 24GB but the choices are 16GB or 32GB which sounds like too much.

2) I have Microsoft Office 2016 with Outlook. Is that something I can keep and download on a new computer or is it just a 'one computer' type thing and is compatibility with Windows 10 an issue. I guess this is 2 questions. Is it something I can have on the 2 computers and is it compatible? Anybody know?

3) Doesn't Windows 10 have it's own email program? The only reason I had upgraded the Microsoft package I bought with this computer was so I could get Outlook because I was worried about losing my MSN mail. I really don't care for the Outlook program. I really like my (paid for) MSN mail but I'm not sure it is the best program to have as my default email.

Most modern games require that you have sound.
They don't require that you have a separate sound card for it.
I've never encountered a Windows game that wouldn't work with onboard sound.

If you want a sound card, and your speakers are good enough, you may hear a difference with a separate card though. And as I said, if you want to use something like Creative's Alchemy program to enhance 3D effects you'll need a sound card that supports it.


It seems expensive to me, but you know better than me which games you want to play, and what features you'd simply enjoy having even though you don't "need" them.


Nothing wrong with having headroom. How much computer you need depends on what type of games you want to play and whether you want to play at maximum settings.


If you currently find 8 GB to be "horrible" you should probably go for 32 GB.
Are you sure it's lack of RAM that's causing the "horrible" though?
As opposed to something like the video card or too much bloatware running in the background?
I know some games (Quern and Xing) have 8 GB as "recommended" but they shouldn't need more than that. Maybe some Darkside game benefits from more though.


If it came installed on your current computer, it's probably meant for a single computer with no transfers.


Maybe Draclvr knows this one.

Originally Posted by oldbroad
2) I have Microsoft Office 2016 with Outlook. Is that something I can keep and download on a new computer or is it just a 'one computer' type thing and is compatibility with Windows 10 an issue. I guess this is 2 questions. Is it something I can have on the 2 computers and is it compatible? Anybody know?
I read somewhere that Microsoft was going to stop supporting old Office and only supporting the Office 365 when it stops supporting windows 7

My ears won't notice any sound difference and even when I had a good speaker system, I almost always use headphones (cheap headphones).

The Corsair is expensive but the eCollege is turning out even more expensive so far.

I do believe the 8GB of Ram is just not enough. Remember how I posted about my memory going through the roof when I'm online? Right now my physical memory is showing 68%, It will go down to 44% or so when I go offline. I do have a LOT of programs/games installed in my computer.

The Microsoft Office with Outlook is something I purchased separately from Microsoft, not what came installed on the computer (which was also paid for).

Thanks to all of you for your help!!

Oh, another thing. I use a ethernet cable for my internet BUT if at sometime I were to not want to or need to use the ethernet connection, would that be a problem with most computers? I know the Corsair said it has an ethernet port and comes with a wireless dongle.

You'll still get better volume with a separate card when using headphones.
That's been my experience anyway -- that separate cards have louder maximum volume.


People have had problems with gluttonous web browsers eating up all their memory.
You can do a search for

web browser uses too much memory

It's kind of ridiculous that a stupid web browser eats up more than a high end game, but web browser developers are all "all your memory are belong to us."


Programs don't take up memory when they're not running.
They take up hard drive space, but not RAM.
You can check Task Manager to see if something is running that you don't know about.


Then you'll have to check what you bought.
You may be able to install it on up to three computers or it may be for only one.


That won't be a problem. If the computer doesn't come with it you can always add it via an expansion slot or USB.

+_+_+_+_+_+_+

Note that that Corsair Vengeance 5180 is sort of a cube shape, and is fatter than most tower cases.

I really need to upgrade my RAM - I'm still running 8 GB, but I'm able to play games like The Witcher 3 on the highest settings with no problems.

So I put this one together at eCollegePC for $1394

Intel Core i7 8700 3.2Ghz (4.6Ghz Turbo) 12MB Cache Six-Core
Stock Intel LGA1151 Heatsink and Fan
ASUS ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming (Intel Z390, HDMI, 3xPCI-E, 2xM.2, 6xSATA, 4xDDR4, Wifi)
16GB (8GBx2) DDR4 2666Mhz Memory Lifetime Warranty (Major Brand)
1TB Solid State Drive SATA3 Inland Professional
12X LG Blu-ray Player / 16X DVD+/-RW DVD Burner SATA
8GB Radeon RX 580 GDDR5 PCI-E DVI/DP/HDMI (Major Brand)
Microsoft Windows 10 Home 64bit (Includes DVD + COA)
Fractal Design Focus G Black (2 5.25, 2 3.5) 2 Fans, Audio/USB 3.0
650watt Corsair CX650 80 PLUS CERTIFIED
Onboard 1Gbit LAN included
Onboard HD 7.1 Sound included
Wires and Cables run behind case and tied up for maximum airflow
3 Year Parts and Labor Warranty
Standard processing time: Ready to ship within 5 to 7 Business Days


The more expensive processors have a "K" behind them. That means they are unlocked so you can mess with overclocking... something you don't need. I just put that higher end ROG (Republic of Gamers) Strix motherboard in a build I did with my grandson. REALLY liked that board. It also has built-in 802.11 ac WiFi. 16 GB of RAM is more than enough and something you can always add down the road. Also put in a 1 TB super speedy solid state drive - love mine - and a Blu-ray DVD player/burner. Don't know if you use Blu-ray disks, but it's there if you want it. Then added in that Radeon RX580 video card and upped the power supply to a Corsaid 650 watt. For another $50 you can get the Radeon 590. The Fractal Design case is a great one, but you can always look at other cases.

So, there is a good starting point... I will tell you the sound from the on-board sound on that Strix motherboard is incredible. Grandson is going to have to up his speakers to get the most out of it.

If you purchased that Office, you should have more than one installation available... you'd have to look at the terms that came with it. If you don't like Outlook, you really didn't need to purchase it. You can use the paid for MSN email on any computer you own if that's what you like. I use the free Outlook.com, Gmail and the old version of Microsoft Live Mail that is no longer supported. Right now I'm using all three on three different drives and systems.
Windows 10 does not come with its own email. It does have the Mail App which you can use to bring all the your email accounts into one app. When I open my Mail App, I have almost a dozen email accounts there! I monitor the email accounts for several groups at our American Legion, plus one for Mystery Manor, plus my Outlook, Gmail and other email. They are just all in one place in the app.

Okay, thank you Winfrey, Jenny, and Draclvr. I am in overload mode right now and need to review some of this information, look some more, and think.

Just one more word about the email. When I bought this computer I had the Office stuff that you can get from eCollege but it didn't include Outlook. I don't care to have Outlook but couldn't buy just Outlook. They "upgraded" me somehow though supposedly at a cheaper price than buying Office 2016 since I already had all the spreadsheet/word/power point stuff. (Something like that anyway.) One of my problems with the email was that I got so confused reading about what they were no longer going to support and not knowing/understanding what it all was. To me, Outlook, MSN, Live Mail, Hot Mail, ALL the same to me! So, I thought I better purchase the Outlook email even though I can access Outlook mail whenever I want without a purchase. They are a little different to use but I don't know why they have the two different Outlooks. (I don't even know if I'm making sense with this because that is how confused I am with it.) Please, don't try to explain. I don't really care anymore and will NEVER get it.!

My main concern is to have a "default" email for instances like if I try to email through Gameboomers here, it wants to open my "default" email and will now open the Outlook ap. I used to use MSN as my default email but got worried it was going to be cancelled/dropped/no longer supported so I was afraid to make it my default email in this computer. Also, I had to open that ap myself; it would not automatically open like Outlook will if I try to send email through Gameboomers. But the Outlook that I can access from my browser by going to outlook.com or something is not the same as the purchased Outlook and I could not set it as a default.

It takes a good while for my MSN mail to open and load but it is still the best email program I have found yet (for me).

Anyway, I need to clear my brain for awhile before I get back to looking at this stuff further!

Your brain is definitely on overload! I will just say this - none of them are the same at all! Some are web based email and some are "clients" which are programs on your computer. When your brain is rested, let us know and we can try to make it all work for you.

Thanks!

I want to throw one more thing into the mix. If you are looking at getting a high end gaming computer, you will have to be careful where you put it. I remember you said you have your current computer in very tight space in a closet with potential overheating problems. With a high end gamer like you're looking at, that would be the death of it! It will need to have wide open spaces to dissipate heat.

The review of the Corsair Vengeance Gaming PC 5180 at
https://www.pcmag.com/review/364774/corsair-vengeance-gaming-pc-5180
gives its dimensions as "13.8 by 10.9 by 15.7 inches (HWD)."

So it's 10.9 inches wide, 13.8 inches tall, and 15.7 inches deep.
As Draclvr says, you'd also want to leave plenty of room on the sides and back for air circulation if you get this particular computer.

If you're going to keep the new computer in a closet, you might want to look for one with parts that are known to run cooler rather than faster -- or find some way to cool the closet.

Yes, thanks. I am trying to figure out a place higher up. Need to rearrange/clean some stuff which is one of those things I never get to doing. That is actually one thing I like about the Corsair though Jenny. I worry about a regular tower standing anyplace the cats might knock it over. A little bigger base and less height. I think the computer I have now was kind of "high end" too when I bought it.

All of the ATX form factor cases will be nice and solid too. The Fractal Design case on the eCollegePC I put together is 8" wide x 17" high x 18" long. I have a Rosewill ATX case and my 80 pound Bloodhound bumped into it running through the house and it didn't budge!

Thanks. I'll take a look at the available cases. I usually don't care what the case looks. With the computer I have now and what I was building the other day, I just started with one of the computers they showed and added/changed a few things. I don't worry about mother boards and fans and whatever else. I just leave that to the computer people. When I bought this one I emailed Mike to just make sure there were enough fans since I don't know about that stuff.

I suggest you take a look at the one I put together for you and my accompanying comments. It gives you a good starting point and with the exception of the video card is a better computer than the Corsair for nearly $1,000 less. You just said you preferred Radeon cards, so that's what I put in it.

The one thing I don't like about the Corsair is the Micro ATX build. There is nothing wrong with a tiny little motherboard, but they are much harder to work with.

Okay, thanks.

Finally felt okay enough to look at this stuff again. I do have a couple of more questions.

1) Can one monitor be connected to two computers at the same time as long as the monitor has different connector types? (Only using one computer at a time of course.)

2) Other than the Blu Ray part, what is the difference between the 24X LG SATA Dual Layer DVD /-RW/CDRW and the 12X LG Blu-ray Player / 16X DVD +/-RW DVD Burner SATA?

Can you use both to back up or burn a game? Play a game? Watch a movie? Listen to a music CD? I know Blu Ray movies are different; I just don't know about all the other stuff, mainly the +/-. I know RW is Read/Write but still could use clarification.

Thanks.

You sure can use two computers with one monitor. You just need to be able to switch between the two connectors either with a button on the monitor or with the monitor driver software.

This explains the differences between the DVD formats. If you don't watch Blu Ray movies, then you don't need that capability.

https://www.lifewire.com/different-types-of-dvd-recorders-2482957

Sure. You can also have the computers on at the same time, but will have to use your monitor settings to go between them.


Unless you have Blu-Ray discs, I'd go for the DVD drive. I've heard some complaints about Blu-Ray drives that don't read DVD's very well.


A Player can only play. It looks like this one can play Blu-Ray movies but is supposed to be able to both read and burn DVD's.

Well, thank you both but I didn't learn anything, I'm sorry to say.

Regarding the monitor, I was hoping it would just be as easy as connecting it to the 2 computers and when I turned one on it would work. I have never known how to do anything else with any monitors I've ever had. I don't recall ever having software or instructions with any of them.

As for the other, can this: 24X LG SATA Dual Layer DVD /-RW/CDRW do this: Back up or burn a game? Play a game? Watch a movie? Listen to a music CD? And now I have to add the question of what type of discs are required to use in it? (Sorry Drac but the linc you provided made it harder for me to know.) Well, in researching further, I guess this is the same thing I have in this computer I'm using now and I believe it does all of the above but I've never actually tested it out. As far as I know, I burned some games to disc but whether they work or not, I don't know. And, I've never yet tried to watch a movie or listen to a music CD. I know it works to play games.

So, maybe my questions are answered.

If only one computer is on, the monitor will switch to that one.


Yes to all of them, just like any other DVD burner for a computer.
If your movie is on a Blu-Ray disc, you'd need a Blu-Ray player.


Either DVD+R or DVD-R for burning.

Jenny, thank you! I guess I just don't feel sure about things if they aren't spelled out and nowhere in the description does it say "burner" like it does in the Blu-Ray one. I should have thought to look at the one in this computer sooner. Then I wouldn't have had to ask about that since e-College seems to be selling the same one as they did 4 years ago when I bought this computer. I probably asked the same question back then.

Regarding the monitor, then I would NOT have to "switch between the two connectors either with a button on the monitor or with the monitor driver software" as long as I just have one of the computers on (which is what I originally asked)?

No, you would "switch" between them if you had both computers on. You are only using one at a time whether you have both computer on at the same time or not.


The listing of support for DVD /-RW/CDRW means they are "recordable" and "re-writeable."

Drac, if the monitor is hooked up to 2 different computers and I turn 1 of them on, it will work, yes?

Then I turn that computer off, and turn the other one on and it will work, yes?

If you could just play stuff but not burn stuff, what would it say?

Thanks.

Yes, the monitor will use the computer that's on automatically.

I assume each computer will have its own keyboard and mouse.
If you want to use the same keyboard and mouse for both computers, you should probably consider a KVM switch to avoid having to attach the keyboard and mouse to the other computer every time you switch computers.


There's no one description. They might call it a DVD drive or a DVD player or they might call it something else. A drive like this wouldn't be sold on a new computer.
If you want to be sure, look up the model of the drive or ask the seller.

I use a KVM switch and it enables me to use one mouse, one keyboard and all three of my current computers - with just the one monitor.

Thanks once again Jenny. I am going to get another keyboard and mouse and will probably use it, but will keep it around for an extra if not. I do dislike having to attach and unattach and that is why I am trying to be certain about the monitor. I don't think I want to get a new one right now. At any rate, I do have an extra one around if I end up needing it but it is smaller. It can certainly be used to fill in though.

I tried a KVM switch one time but couldn't get it to work between my '98 and XP.

I still can't figure out where exactly I'm going to set this new computer up though.

Mine works with my Win98, WinXP and Win7 machines but it was expensive.
For me, though, well worth the cost

To some degree that depends on its shape.
If it's one of those cube-like ones, it will fit a different spot than a tower.

Just make sure this one is not set up in a confined space since it is going to have higher end components.

Back to looking again. I have been looking today at these new AMD Radeon cards, not that I actually understand any of it. I do have a question regarding the article in the link below. Somewhere between the 2 pictures it says something about RIS and not working with games with DX10 and DX11. Is this referring to Direct X 10 and Direct X 11 and that games that use these cannot be played with these video cards or is this something totally different? Or is it just that RIS that won't work with Direct X10 and Direct X 11 games but the games can be played with these video cards?

I hope I'm making sense.

https://www.eurogamer.net/articles/...xt-review-head-to-head-with-nvidia-super

The way I read it, it's the RIS (Radeon Image Sharpening) feature that doesn't work when playing DirectX 10 and 11 games. That doesn't mean the cards won't play those games -- just that they won't use that particular RIS feature with DirectX 10 and 11 games. No older ATI cards use RIS because it's new, and no Nvidia cards have or will have RIS. RIS isn't required to play the games.

Thank you Jenny! As I keep reading, that's how I'm understanding it also. This review here states the RIS is only incompatible with Direct X 11 games but works with Direct X 10 games. As long as the games play, that isn't an issue for me.

https://www.pcmag.com/review/369171/amd-radeon-rx-5700

What do you think of the card? What do you think about buying a card that is this new and not so "tested" yet? All the info I've seen says they run hot and are loud.

Even better.

And the author of that 2nd article said, "I asked AMD about this, and the company says it's "looking into DX11 compatibility in the future."
So even that may not remain an issue for RIS.

And he also said RIS works better and has better compatibility than Nvidia's image sharpening technique. He said



Of course I don't have any experience with a card that new, and can't tell you how loud it is, but it looks like a good one. The RIS feature may turn out to be a useful feature when playing older adventure games which use DirectX 9.

And here is a critical thing to consider... Assuming you are upgrading your current video card, do make sure a new one is compatible with your motherboard and that you have a powerful enough power supply to run it.

Thanks for your input Jenny!

You too Drac, but this is not for upgrading. I'm still trying to purchase a new system. I still haven't decided where it's going to go and I still can't decide on some things. I thought today I might come to some decisions but then this new card showed up on eCollege and I've been looking again all day (at the card and other things), so still no decisions. My brain is tired again!

The thread about Egypt II got off subject so I'm moving back here.

A couple more questions.

I'm planning on the new Radeon AMD RX5700 video card. I believe it requires a 600 watt power supply. Is 650 watt okay then or should it really be higher, like 750? (I understand 650 is higher than 600. I guess I am asking though if it's better to not get exactly what it requires so to speak.)

This video card says it has a Display Port and a HDMI connection. I was trying not to buy another monitor and was hoping to hook this up to the same monitor my XP is hooked up to but I'm not sure that it will work right or whether it is a good idea or not.

The AMD RX5700 says: Video Card connections:

Display Port: 1.4 with DSC
HDMI: 4K60 Support

I don't know what that all means.

The monitor I was hoping to use is a Dell from January 2011. I was just sitting on my kitchen floor with a magnifying glass in one hand and a flashlight in the other trying to see what connections it has and what information I can give you. This is it: Dell LCD Monitor Model ST2320Lf It has 3 connectors: DVI-D, D-Sub (which is what I have the XP hooked up to) and HDMI (I guess from what I found Googling it is a Type A HDMI IN). Further information is: AC 100-240V 50/60 Hz 1.5A (1,5A)

With a HDMI cable, will this work? (I don't know what the 4K60 Support means.)

One other note, the D-Sub and the HDMI connections are right next to each other and I'm not real sure if both can be used at the same time as I'm not sure there is enough room for both connectors to fit side by side. I don't have a HDMI cable to test it out.

I know you try to be as thorough as possible and I do appreciate that but please, the most simple answers will be helpful.

The "minimum" wattage for that card is 600 watts. I would get at least a 650 or 700 watt. I prefer more "head room" rather than less.

D-sub is the old VGA port. If the monitor has an HMDI port, then you should be able to use it. You will need to purchase an HDMI cable. HDMI just means that it is high definition and can also carry sound.

The 4K support means that if you have a 4K monitor, this video card will support it. 4K is VERY high definition and not a lot of people can support it because their internet connection is not good enough. I have a 4K TV, but my measly WiFi isn't fast enough!

The other numbers you gave just say that it is an AC type of current which is what we use in the US.

This very old monitor is not going to give you the kind of video that the AMD video card can put out. To be honest, if you've got another $100 laying around, an investment in a new monitor would be worth it. Seems a shame to have such an awesome video card and an old monitor that would not take advantage of it. But if you're trying to save a few bucks, it will be fine

Simple is better, oldbroad!

OY!

1) I added something to my original post while you were posting. (About the closeness of the 2 connections on the monitor.)

2) The monitor doesn't say 4K; the video card does. I don't know if the monitor will support the video card. That is why I was asking if it would work. I have no idea if my internet connection would support that at all.

3) I don't want 2 different monitors on my table. Can you direct me to a monitor that will work with the video card I want AND that I can connect my XP to? (And the proper cables.)

Closeness doesn't matter as long as the connectors fit next to each other.
If you wanted to you could leave the D-Sub attached to the old computer and attach the new one to the HDMI.


It will work with your older monitor at a lower resolution, but it won't produce 4K on a monitor that can't support 4K.


Not sure what you mean. Your network connection won't affect your video card resolution unless you are playing an online game that requires extremely high resolutions, and I don't know of any.


Your current monitor would work.
If you want a new monitor that can do 4K, you'll have to find one that your old computer has a connection for. Does your XP computer only have a D-sub connection on the video card or does it also have a DVI connection?

Here's a D-Sub
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:SVGA_port.jpg

Here are examples of DVI
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Dvi-cable.jpg
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:DVI_Connector_Types.svg

Hi Jenny. Thank you for very direct, simple answers.

What I meant about the closeness of the 2 connections is that it doesn't look like the heads of the connectors will fit together in the space. Not sure how to say that, but like how you cannot use two outlets next to each other on a power strip because the plugs are too big and block access to one of the other outlets on it.

My comment about the internet connection is because of what Draclvr wrote: "4K is VERY high definition and not a lot of people can support it because their internet connection is not good enough. I have a 4K TV, but my measly WiFi isn't fast enough!"

I'll have to check the XP out. I'm not really sure what kind of connection(s) it has.

EDIT: If I'm looking at the right spot on the XP (which is next to where the monitor is plugged in) there is a S-OUT and a AV-OUT. Don't know what those are.

Also, regarding the power supplies, eCollege has 650 or 750 and some higher. No 700. Which would you think is better?

HDMI cables are pretty slim. At least mine are. If you have one, try plugging it in next to the other connection on your monitor. I don't know of any monitor where you can't attach the cables to connectors that are next to each other.


I think Draclvr is talking about a situation where she'd be using Wi-Fi instead of a cable to connect the 4K TV to the video card.

Most people who are enthusiastic about 4K are young people with perfect vision and who think they can see a difference between regular 1080p (1920x1080 resolution) and 4K.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4K_resolution

There are YouTube videos explaining why people can't actually see in 4K. I know I can't.


Well, if it only has a DVI connection you don't want to get a monitor that only has D-Sub and HDMI. Make sure you know for sure which connector type you need.


Get the 750.
Like Draclvr said, it's good to have headroom. The power supply will usually last longer if there is headroom.



Look at the plug that's plugged into the monitor. That's the one you'd use if you got a new monitor. It may be D-sub, but could be DVI.
S-out might be S-video out, which might go to a TV. Does it look like this?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Close-up_of_S-video_female_connector.jpg
AV-out sounds like it's one of those circular RCA jacks, also not something you'd attach to a computer. Does it look like this?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Composite-cables.jpg

So, the question is... are you planning on using this monitor on BOTH computers at the same time and they will be sort of next to each other?

Okay, thank you.

So, the XP only has the D-sub monitor connection. (Yes Jenny, that is what those other connections look like.)

Drac, preferably I will have both computers hooked up to one monitor but only be using one computer at a time. Just don't want to have to keep changing the hook up. (Discussed this somewhere earlier in this thread.) I will use 2 different monitors rather than have to keep changing it out but I really don't want to do that either.

750 watt EVGA SuperNOVA G3 modular 80 PLUS GOLD CERTIFIED
or
750 watt EVGA SuperNOVA P2 modular 80 PLUS PLATINUM CERTIFIED ??

It's standard for a monitor to automatically switch to whichever input it receiving a signal. So if you shut one computer off and turn the other one on, the monitor will automatically change to the computer that's on.


Both have 4.5 stars out of 5 at Amazon.
SuperNOVA G3 at Amazon
SuperNOVA P2 at Amazon

That's a good setup. Some monitors even have a switch that lets you switch between monitors even if they both are on.

If I buy a new monitor, do I have to get one that says 4K for it to compliment the video card?

Also, why do the monitors list operating systems? Don't they work with Windows 10?

I actually like this monitor because all the connectors are on the side, rather than on the bottom where you can't see them AND the brightness or whatever buttons are all right on front. The ones on the monitors I have now are not where I can see them or know what they are so they never get used. And I like the USB ports on it. But it doesn't show Windows 10 or 4K.

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-PB238Q-...1568682581&s=electronics&sr=1-13

(I'm just looking. I don't know. Getting tired and overwhelmed again.)

If you like this monitor, then just stick with it! Just keep in mind that you are using a high end video card with a very old monitor.

And if you DID decide to get a new one, then no, unless you plan on using 4K, you don't need to get a monitor that can use it. Like Jenny says, it's mostly for the young crowd who think they need the best of the best!

This is the one my friend just got. It has both a VGA (older analog port you are using) and an HDMI port. But your old one may be just fine for YOU! In fact, if you like it, then just keep using it!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVL2D2S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No Drac. I didn't mean I like the monitor I have. I meant I like the one in the link (until I start looking at reviews of course). Both the monitors I use now are fine but very hard to get to connections and any monitor buttons.

Display Port: 1.4 with DSC or HDMI: 4K60 Support So neither of these connections mean I need something special?

I'll probably just stick with what I'm using for now as long as it will work. I'll just have to buy a HDMI cable. I knew I should have bought the 2 pack when I bought one for this monitor. Then I'd have an extra now.

Yeah, that would be convenient for connection. I don't think I would like all my cables sticking out of the side of the monitor though.

If you stick with the old monitor, it doesn't have a display port connection. As long as it has HDMI, you'll be OK.

Yep. I think that's the plan. Stick with the old monitor for now and buy a HDMI cable. I was actually hoping to try the display port connection as I was reading that they are better.?

This monitor with my Win 7 has the cable connections on the back but the one in the kitchen with my XP and soon to be Win 10 have the cable connections on the lower edge of the monitor which is why I had to sit on the floor to look at them. I pulled the monitor to the edge of the table and got underneath it more or less. Not very convenient! And neither has good monitor setting buttons or whatever they are/do. I just don't use them.

Whew! All day on this again but at least I do think I know what I'm getting now. It is so exhausting to me though.

I've also been looking at some different stands/carts to try to raise the new computer up a little higher off the floor but most that I see are probably going to be too small. I think I still have one extra stand on wheels that might work but I was looking at this one that had adjustable height that I could bring it up a little higher but it looks like it might be too narrow. I even looked at little dollies and plant stands. Has to fit where I want it and also be okay for the computer. No real luck though. I think I'm going to put the XP on top of the table once I move my non-working printer off of it. The XP is not too big so will be better up there than the new one but I am still not really sure about how the set up is going to work.

THEN, I have to hope I can get my internet hooked up somehow. The equipment I have now is 8 years old and I keep losing my connection. Not losing service; just my connection. I hope I can just get new equipment and I hope I can figure out how to set it up. I really don't want anybody to have to come in my house and I keep worrying that they are going to tell me they can't connect me for some reason! Then I'll have a new computer and nothing to do with it.

Would anything like these work? I have something similar to the second one. Mostly, so I can move it so I can vacuum under it.

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=computer...mp;tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_i82eawwp8_p

Thanks Drac. Amazon is where I've been looking. That first one in the second row is the one that is height adjustable but may be too narrow between those bars, and I think it says it only supports 19 lbs??? though I think some reviewer said different.

I've looked at quite a number of them already. Is yours that kind of X shaped one then? The ones I have now are like the third one in the second row.

This one? It says it supports up to 60 pounds.

Adjustable Height Computer Cart

Mine is more like this one.

Computer Dolly

Yes, that one. I swear somewhere I saw 19 lbs which I did think sounded strange. Must have mixed it up with one of the many others I looked at.

I would not mind a dolly like that if I could find one in the right size, for both my space and the computer. The one pictured in your link is only 15.7 inches long. Most of the cases are 18 to 21 inches long. And I haven't measured the space where I'll put it since I haven't seen one to buy yet.

I have quite a large ATX form factor case and it is only a little over 17.5" long. About the longest the large ATX cases get is 18". A 21" case would be one of the absolutely giant EATX cases made for massive water cooling systems. Mine does hang over about an inch on each end. No biggie. I just want to be able to roll it away so I can clean under it.

Is this the right cable to buy to connect to my monitor? Male to male?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8SSD...316-9ee2-1087ae69c7a0&pd_rd_wg=pHC6X


I bought this one before but can't tell what is the difference other than price (and maybe that male to male?).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019EHU8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes you'd want a male-to-male HDMI cable for between a monitor and a video card.

Male to female would look like this
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-High-Speed-Female-Extension-Cable/dp/B01D5H8ZI8/qid=1569973672

You'd probably only want a male-to-female HDMI cable to use as an extension cable -- if your cable wasn't long enough.

Thanks Jenny.

Now, I need some advice/opinions. This is hard for me to explain so it's going to be kind of long.

I first got DSL/U-verse internet in 2011. I have a router and modem. I read the instructions and figured out how to set it up myself in my other Windows 7 computer and then somehow hooked this windows 7 computer to it also.

After less than a year I thought something was wrong with the modem (what the real problem was had nothing to do with the modem) and I called AT&T and they sent me new equipment. I never used this equipment because I figured out what the real problem was. So I am currently using equipment from 2011 and have an extra set of equipment that is just as old but not used.

Around 2 years ago I was losing my connection a lot, mostly in certain weather. AT&T didn't want to believe there was a problem on the line in the alley but when my phone had so much static on it that we could barely hear each other, they came out to check it. They kept telling me I needed new equipment, but sure enough the line was exposed somehow and rain and wind were causing problems. It was fixed and worked fine for around a year or so. Then I started having problems again but I couldn't connect it to the weather.

I've been living all this year with this problem of losing my connection. I have to unplug the modem to let it cool down and then plug it in again. Mostly these days it only stays on for an hour or so. Some days it will stay on though for 10 to 20 hours (very rare). I don't know why it varies so much. I tried the other unused modem (but not with the other unused router). The modem never connected to my computer and I didn't know if I was supposed to do something in the computer or what and was afraid to mess around with it for fear of totally losing internet. I've been looking into buying a new computer all year so thought I might as well wait to get the internet fixed when I get the new computer because I don't know if I will know how to hook it up anyway.

Well, I ordered the computer last week. Today I called AT&T to ask them to send me new equipment. Before I felt they were pushing it but now they won't just send it. They have to send somebody out to look at my current equipment and my lines and I don't know what all, or why. I could barely understand the woman and found myself getting very frustrated. I first started to say no to a service call but then the thought of having to call back again (trying to get through the machine to a person and then that person is in billing so then you have to wait for a tech and then you can't understand them and they don't listen to you) made me say ok to a service call, but now I'm having second thoughts again which is where I need your advice/opinions.

Should I let the person come out and see what they say and maybe have to have them back out again after I get the new computer? Even if the computer is here when they come, I do not believe it is even going to be set up yet.

Should I cancel the appointment (providing I can get through to somebody) and wait for the new computer and try to use the old but unused equipment to see if I can figure out again how to set it up and see if it works? I know I don't want to try to hook up the connection I have now since I do know it does not work well.

I'm sure this all sounds stupid to you but I am really concerned about this. I just don't know which way is better. I just wish they would have sent me new equipment and I could have seen whether or not I could figure it out with the new computer.

Yes, yes, yes... please allow them to come out and get you hooked up. You should really not be using equipment that is that old. If your modem is overheating, that is definitely NOT normal. You really need to let them come out and sort this out for you.

If they can come out and get everything working for you once and for all, it should matter what computer is connected to it. Turn on a new computer and allow it to connect... enter any password if needed and you're good to go. I've done this so many times for other people.

So, you think I should let them come and see if I can get my internet fixed up now even though I won't have the new computer hooked up yet?

Just let them fix it for this old computer and then worry about hooking up the new computer when I'm ready?

Absolutely. Let them sort out your issues. It will be SO much easier to hook the new one up if you do.

Okay. I was just thinking it might be better to start off fresh on the new one.

But, this "Turn on a new computer and allow it to connect..." won't just happen. I do not have wi-fi or wireless. I'll have to set up a connection somehow like I did in this computer 8 years ago. Not sure if I'll be able to do that.

So, your modem isn't WiFi, correct? And the new computer doesn't have a WiF adapter, correct? If it's the computer, that's easily remedied with a USB WiFi adapter you can get at Wal Mart. But if you are intent on having a wired connection, then that's even easier... just connect an ethernet cable from the computer to the modem. Done. No passwords etc.

I currently have a wired connection and am assuming it will stay that way.

When I set up the internet in 2011, I set it up on my other Windows 7 which no longer works. But I did have to make some kind of network connection with this computer using a USB key (I think) and I'm pretty sure there was a password involved. It did not just plug in and work. Unfortunately, I don't really remember HOW it worked.

Yeah, since there is no way to know what it was, it's hard to tell. I have a WiFi router and I have a USB WiFi adapter on my desktop. I set up my WiFi router with a password. My computer "sees" the WiFi network and I enter the password. It connects and I tell it to connect automatically and that is the last time I have to enter the password.

Whenever anyone comes here and wants to connect to my network, they just plug in and enter the password and it works.

Well, I just went online and cancelled the appointment. I may try the other equipment I have or I may not but I will feel better having the new computer set up before I have AT&T out here. I will need a chance to see what Windows 10 looks like first.

Maybe if/when I call back I will get somebody who will listen to me and who I can understand.

My biggest fear is that I will not be able to have internet service for some stupid reason and will have wasted a LOT of money on a computer that won't be of any use. It is one of the things I was worrying about all year while looking at computer components. I am not excited about this computer at all because it has been already, and will still be, so much work. I hope someday when it is all set up with all my stuff and everything works, I will be able to enjoy it! I still don't know exactly where it is going.

Why would it be so much work? And why wouldn't you be able to have internet service? I'm kind of puzzled. Now, if you continue to use equipment that overheats, you definitely may end up with no internet.

I'm going to guess that the USB key contained software to set up the connection between the router and the modem. Router and modem settings normally include a password. But once everything is set up, you don't need that password to connect one or more computers to the router if you're using a cable.


You don't want to connect a computer directly to the modem without that router in between. The router should already be set up to automatically connect to any computer that is attached by an ethernet cable. So you have to either use DHCP (automatic connection) or, if you use a static connection instead of DHCP, you have to tell the computer what IP number, what gateway, and what DNS server to use. Normally the only reason to use a static connection is if you're operating a server, so by default a new computer will be configured to use DHCP when you're connecting with a cable.

You should be able to connect as many computers to the router as it has ethernet ports. Or if your router only has one ethernet port, you can connect an internet switch to the router, like one of ***these***. A switch doesn't require any special configuration.

+_+_+_+_+_+

Considering your trouble with maintaining a connection, you might be having a problem we used to have where I live. Our phone lines (the lines in our neighborhood, not specifically on our property) were old and weren't capable of sustaining the bandwidth that AT&T was advertising. We had to change our service to slower bandwidth to prevent it from disconnecting. I think it was 28mbps that we started with and we had to go down to 12mbps. Eventually AT&T switched to fiber in our neighborhood and the limitation went away, but while we still had old-fashioned copper wiring we weren't able to get faster than 12mbps. A steady connection at 12mbps is infinitely better than a connection at a faster speed that is disconnecting all the time.

Of course if your modem is actually heating up, it should be replaced. They aren't supposed to get hot and that may be why your connection is disconnecting. But old copper wires also slowly get worse, so it's something you should ask the AT&T guy about when he comes to check your house -- whether using a slower connection would improve stability.

There is no benefit whatsoever to waiting until your new computer comes before having someone from AT&T come out to check your connection. The new computer won't magically work with a bad connection.

Well, I very probably did something wrong but I DID use the USB key and I believe a password on this second computer connection, not just on the original computer set up.



I didn't try to connect direct to the modem. It was hooked up to the router and all lit up properly, but no connection apparently with my computer.



I feel it is the equipment now. What annoys me is that AT&T tried to push it on me before when that wasn't the problem but now they won't send me new equipment without somebody coming out here. I am not going to try to hook this connection up to the new computer but what good is it going to do to have AT&T out here when I don't even have the new computer set up. If they fix something it will only be on this computer and then I still have to try to figure out how to connect the new computer. Maybe they will bring the equipment and set it up for me. That is what I was told 2 years ago. That somebody (probably) has to set it up for me. Ideally, they will just send me the equipment and let me try to figure it out myself. I can always call them back out if I need help with it.

Draclvr, I just find the whole process, physically and mentally exhausting as most things in my life are these days. Like I've said before, what seems easy to one or even most people is not always so easy for another.

Sorry, I messed up my replies to the quoted stuff so they are mixed in there.

I guess I just feel so bad that this is difficult for you and I can't help! This is the point I was trying to make... From Jenny who said it much better!

The benefit is to my peace of mind. Tackling one thing at a time. Trying not to overwhelm myself.

Then that's good enough right there!

You probably logged into the modem and router settings when you used the software on the USB key.
The software may make setup easier, but it also obscures what you're actually doing and where settings are being held.



Did you use the software on the USB key to make sure your router could communicate with the "other unused modem." If the router and the modem aren't set up to communicate with each other, you're not going to get to the Internet. Also if the modem can't maintain a stable connection over Internet because of bad wires in your neighborhood, it wouldn't matter if you did go into the router and modem settings and make sure they were set up to communicate with each other.


They may have learned by experience. The new equipment may be more difficult to configure because of increased security, and they've had too many problems leaving configuration up to the customer.


If they actually fix the problem, it will definitely NOT be "only on this computer." It will be fixed and working on every computer connected to your router. If your router/modem is set up and working properly, and your wiring is adequate, all you'd have to do is connect the new computer to the router with the ethernet cable. Everything should work automatically. You can put up with bad service until the new computer arrives, or you can wait until the new computer arrives and is set up. The difference is that the longer you wait, the longer it will take before they can diagnose your problem and fix it.

If they replace your hot modem and you still have problems with disconnecting, and the wiring in your neighborhood is old, remember what I said before about asking about slower Internet speeds.


I would guess setting up routers and modems is not easy for most people. Which is why AT&T wants to send someone to your house instead of just sending the equipment.

No, I did not know to do that and didn't want to mess around too much for fear of losing my connection permanently (you know, until somebody would come out).



This didn't seem to be the case for me when I set up this computer that I'm on now (though as stated maybe I did something I didn't really have to do with the USB key and password). If what you are saying is true, then I can still just connect the ethernet cable from the current router to the new computer and I will have a internet connection (though I will still lose connection if it is my modem that is bad). I guess I may try to test that once the new computer is set up. OR, maybe with the unused but still old equipment (router and modem together) if I can figure it out again. Then I can go from there.

Yes, getting this done quicker sounds good but I cannot deal with the problems of setting up the new computer and worrying about the internet at the same time. I need to do it step by step.



I think this is true that they believe people need the help but that is all the more reason I'd rather have the new computer set up so they can just do it on there. They did not say though that they were sending new equipment with the person, just that they needed to come out and "look" at everything. Much as I dread doing it, I will call back after I see what's what with the new computer.

If you connect the new computer to the old equipment, you will have the same problems you are having now. This is not dependent on which computer is connected, but rather on old malfunctioning equipment.

Yes, I understand that Draclvr. I mean just to SEE if it connects but not to keep it connected to this old equipment. If, however, I am able to connect the unused older equipment, I would leave that connected to see how it goes; find out whether it also has the same problem or not, and then go from there.

Is the new computer ONLY for Internet and not for games?
Have you already ordered it?
I remember at one point you were interested in a squarish one.

The computer is for everything. Internet and gaming. That's basically my everything. No internet would basically mean no gaming though as you need internet to download the games.

It is actually out for delivery today.

I hope you like your new computer, oldbroad. Fingers crossed that things work out well for you without too much hassle.

And please feel free to contact me through email for any assistance with Windows 10. I can do Windows 10 in my sleep and have helped at least 7 people get started in it.

How exciting!
Hope you can get it set up quickly so you can play.

Thank you Marian, Draclvr, and Jenny!

I will certainly update you!

Maybe you're not, but I'm kinda excited!

How's it going?
Did your new friend arrive as scheduled?

I received the computer yesterday but haven't even opened the box yet. I'm still clearing my kitchen table and hoping I might be able to put it there. I was going to put the XP there but may just put this one there.

Also, still waiting for the cable for the monitor hook up. I ordered it Tuesday. It's supposed to be here by 8:00 tonight but the tracking info still doesn't show it shipped. I do not like the way Amazon does stuff now. I prefer the days of FedEx 2 day shipment.

Cable NOT received. Was going to Amazon to complain but apparently at most latest time it should have been delivered they updated the order to "delayed". I'm telling you, Amazon has gotten too big for their britches.

I live out in the middle of nowhere, relatively speaking, and Amazon does an amazing job of getting things to us here quickly - we even get next day delivery sometimes which I never thought would be possible. Depending upon where you are located and numerous other factors, though, I understand that your mileage may vary.

When you do open the box, oldbroad, I am interested in hearing about your new computer.

Same here with Amazon... I live out in the country and the only time their next day or 2 day delivery has failed is when a third party seller doesn't ship quickly. I always try to make sure items and "fulfilled by Amazon."

I'm also anxious to hear about the new computer!

Apparently you get better service from Amazon if you live "out in the country."
I live in a town and have none of the advantages of living "out in the country."

This year Amazon's service has gone down the cr@pper.
If you have "Amazon Prime" and buy an item direct listed as "in stock" and coming from Amazon with 2-day service, it can take anywhere from one day to two weeks or more to receive the item.

I bought two of an item. Because the "Amazon" listing said they only had one in stock, I made sure to buy from one of the sellers who didn't have that limitation. So what happens? I am sent the one from Amazon instead of the seller I ordered from, I'm charged for two when I only receive one, never receive the 2nd one, and have to contact their "help" to be sent the second one because they have no option on their "problems with your order" page for missing items or being sent the wrong number of items.

I'm still waiting for a refund on a damaged item I returned two months ago. I've used their "help" four different times trying to get the problem worked out. Apparently the customer service people don't have the access to do their jobs. I first asked for a replacement, and a week later nothing has arrived. I contact Amazon help and they say I'm down for a refund instead. I don't receive a refund and I contact Amazon help again. This person can't tell if I was sent a replacement or a refund, but tries to help. First I get an email saying I'll be refunded some strange amount of money that's roughly half what I paid for the item. I contact help again to say it's the wrong amount. The rep sort of sighs and asks how much refund I want. I say I want the amount I paid for the item. I receive an email saying I'm receiving the correct amount of refund, only for a completely different item that I purchased that cost four times as much. Who knows if they're expecting me to return that item. Amazon is a mess, and if you have to wait a couple of extra days for an item, just be glad nothing worse happened.

I've actually given up on items that were "delayed" but still listed as "in stock" on the Amazon page with the item. I've had more luck cancelling the original order after two weeks and re-ordering the item (which shows up on schedule two days later). I think their website software is bugged, along with who knows what else behind the scenes.

Amazon desperately needs competition.

Wow, Jenny, your experiences are certainly nothing like mine.

And in the last year I have called Customer Service three or four times and all was A+ in my book in terms of responsiveness and resolution of the issue.

I also have Amazon Prime and everything has arrived when it was promised.

I wonder why the disparities.

Jenny, THANK YOU! I know I have complained about Amazon here before and I know I am in the minority regarding them, but I have certainly noticed them going down hill as they have been growing too big. The last time I ordered from them I had trouble with the receiving part too, that was more to do with the Amazon drivers, which is why I really just preferred how they shipped a long time ago before they had their own delivery drivers and facilities all over the place.

Actually, I did have another problem one time with an item clearly showing in stock but they didn't ship it and told me it was not in stock. I cancelled that order and ordered from a 3rd party seller. I've never had any problems yet with the 3rd party sellers but you have to pay the shipping.

The cable sells and ships from Amazon and shows I can get it tomorrow if I order within 12 hours, however, the email that I received this morning has no update for shipment date; just that it is delayed. I also have considered cancelling and reordering. Will think some more about that.

Is "chatting" the only way to contact customer service now? Can't I just email them?

Wow, I think I'm glad I live in the country! I've had to return 3 items and all I had to do was print out a label and either take it to a UPS store in town or for a large item - a damaged TV - UPS was here the next day and picked it up for me! I was immediately refunded the amount upon pickup, not even having to wait for them to receive it.

Like Marian, I wonder what the reason for the disparity is!

What you describe is exactly my experience, Drac, the only difference being when I was returning something they always came and picked up the item right at my front door, and not just large items either. And the refunds were initiated right after the pickup.

The only difference I can see is that we don't get Amazon drivers or trucks where we live.

Well, imagine you returned your item and didn't receive either the replacement you asked for or a refund. And when you logged into your account and looked at your purchase history, it claimed the item had not been returned and the address you were given to return the item to is not attached to the item in your purchase history. And when you try to get Amazon help to sort it out, they claim to do so, and then you get an email with a partial refund on a completely different item from the one you returned.

I've already received one automated email saying the item had not been returned and wouldn't be refunded, and had to contact Amazon help over that yet again.

Amazon's system is all messed up. If anything goes wrong, it just cascades and they have no way to fix things because the reps aren't given those options. The rep told me flat out there was nothing she could do to fix the mess that had been created in my Order history and I still have no idea if I'll ever actually see a refund for this damaged item they sent.

That's just terrible, Jenny. It is hard to believe we are even talking about the same company.

I just ordered a different cable, the same as I ordered 4 years ago for this Windows 7. I tried to cancel this first order but they say they cannot cancel it. IF it does ship, I guess I'll just have an extra cable. I won't even bother trying to return it. For the price they charge for Prime now, it really isn't worth it to me but for some reason I just haven't cancelled. Maybe next time the renewal comes up if I can catch it in time.

Wow.. that's horrible. I agree - it's hard to believe we are even talking about the same company!

You can cancel it at any time, but you won't get a refund if you have used any of the benefits. I get my membership back many times over. Hubby and I also watch Amazon Prime Videos heavily and never have to pay more. I think I had to pay for a couple of the Hunger Games movies when my granddaughter and I watched them together this summer. But we have watched several series and hubby likes all the WW II documentaries they have.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/help/customer/display.html?nodeId=201118010

Thanks for that link Draclvr. I don't use much of their Prime stuff but have been TRYING to so I would feel better about it. Watched a couple of series and a movie or two. Part of me wants to cancel but part of me wants to just try to get more out of it.

The second cable that I ordered was just delivered so hopefully later I will have a little news. (I still have a bit more clearing/cleaning to finish as I was lazy about it yesterday.) I hope opening the case to take the styrofoam out doesn't frustrate me. I assume Mike still packs it like that.

We will be waiting to hear about it all.

Hooked it up and I'm getting NOTHING!!! Emailed MIke.

Of what does nothing consist? Booting to the desktop? Monitor not working? No internet?

Did you make sure the switch on the power supply is in the "on" position?

Nothing at all. No boot up, no movement going on inside.

Yes Draclvr. I did.

Not impossible for a bad power supply... had it happen to me once. As long as the power supply switch has the "dash" pressed down and you have tried plugging it in to a different outlet, it should at least try to boot up.

I don't know which case you got, but also make sure you're not pressing the reset switch instead of the power. Sometimes they look the same.

I know they boot them up before they ship to be sure everything works.

Okay wait. The power supply switch is opposite of the one on this Windows 7 which I looked at first to make sure I did it right. I had tried the switch in both positions when one didn't work but I did not remember to press the start up button after I changed the switch. I just did that and the fans are going now but nothing else is happening that I can tell. The monitor is staying dark. Remember, I plugged this into the same monitor as the XP but the XP computer is completely unplugged from the outlet.

Are any lights flashing on the front of the computer?

And I don't ask this to sound insulting, but because I myself just did it 2 weeks ago! I was troubleshooting a computer and forgot to push the on/off switch on the monitor! I was about to scream until I realized what I'd done. Then I had to laugh at myself.

Also make sure your monitor is plugged in to the video card monitor port, not the video card port for the motherboard.

There are no lights to flash on the front of the computer but nothing inside is lit up at all either.

Sorry there is some little teeny light that flashes now and then on the top.

ALL help appreciated Draclvr as you know my brain does not work well. I think I do have the monitor plugged into the wrong place but I'm having trouble plugging it into the card. Stand by.

That little light should be your hard drive indicator. If it's flashing, that says the hard drive is working. Double check where you have your monitor plugged in to... Reset your cable both in the computer and in the monitor.

Standing by!

WHEW! Had the monitor plugged into the wrong place. I have to email Mike back. He had responded asking for a picture of the plugs in back but I don't have the capability to send that to him.

OK, so does that mean you are up and running? I'm going to hang out here for a little while if you need help to get going.

Gotta say... can you imagine getting a response to an email question within an hour from Dell or HP?! This is one of the reasons I recommend these guys.

Well, sort of. I need to check it all out.

I hooked up the internet just as described earlier in the thread, but plugging the ethernet cable in. No USB key, no password. I don't know what the heck I was doing when I hooked this Windows 7 up. Only, it is plugged in to this modem that keeps going out. (I just wanted to test it to see that it really worked that easily.) I do have a question regarding this.

My Windows 7 needs some serious attention and is running hot quite often. Is it possible that the computer is causing the connection problem and not the modem? Although, I believe the modem was giving me problems before the computer got this bad. Just wondering.

I still am thinking I should hook up my other old but unused equipment (if I can figure it out) and try that (only with the Windows 10 though). If there are problems with that, or even if there aren't, I can then contact AT&T.

I would not for even an instant consider plugging the new computer into the old overheating equipment. In fact, unplug it ASAP.

If I remember correctly, you have your Windows computer in a very cramped space?? Have you been using the software to check the temps whenever you think it's getting hot? Keeping it connected to this malfunctioning modem is NOT a good idea.

Yes, I've been keeping an eye on the temps. Right now they are in the low to mid 40's. After playing they are usually in the 60 range. I know this is okay BUT, I also know that my 2 top and 1 back fans are not working and there is a load of dust in there. Remember a year or so ago when I started talking about dealing with this. DIDN'T! I toyed with the idea of trying to do it myself while I had a clear space to work before hooking up the Windows 10 but I am sure I will not be able to clean or replace the fans myself. I'd like to get the Windows 10 going and I absolutely want to take the Windows 7 somewhere because I would like to get several more years out of it. I know I won't with it how it is now though.

That antivirus that comes with Windows 10 is NOT automatically activated is it? Or how can I check it? I want to put my Norton on the system.

Yes, Defender is automatically activated. So you are covered as soon as you boot it up and connect to the internet. Defender has finally improved enough to be rated quite highly now. I've been using it for years along with Malwarebytes Premium. Absolutely ZERO of all those false positives and Norton deleting game files.

But, if you really want to put Norton on it, Norton will "turn off" Defender.

Oh, that is so bad about the fans on your Windows 7 computer. I can't believe it's hasn't overheated and died on you. I'd get that thing in somewhere and get it taken card of ASAP. A good cleaning with some compressed air a few times a year will go a long way to keeping things running too.

I take the afternoon off to play Sherlock Holmes: Hound of the Baskervilles and when I get back all this excitement has happened.

Are you currently using the Windows 7 computer to get on the Internet?

If you switch your overheating modem for the unused one, it may take an hour or so for the ISP to detect the new modem, so you may want to leave it connected overnight while you're not using it if it doesn't seem to be connecting to the ISP right away.

There is also a fan on the side of my case. It comes on sometimes and goes off. Used to be that it never shut off. It was off for so long at one time that I thought it had stopped working. I just can't get the cleaning done and now it is super bad so even if I tried, I don't think it would be good enough. I even bought some fans but...

So Drac, I don't have to de-activate or shut Defender down some kind of way? Just go ahead and install the Norton and that will take care of it?

Sorry Jenny. I hope you were enjoying your game. Not really much excitement here. I think I'm done for the evening with the internet stuff and the new computer. I installed the other router and hooked it up with the other modem and the modem will not activate or something. I left it for about an hour. Maybe I can try overnight but I think it is not going to work. Yes, I am using the Windows 7 on the internet though I did download Firefox on the Windows 10 while I had it hooked up.

I've looked around a little in the system. Had to change the clock which had the wrong time zone set and I did a restart. Saw some stuff but not much yet.

Yes, that's what "should" happen with Norton. However, after you get it installed and activated, you should go into Settings to make sure Defender is deactivated. When you get to that point, just let me know. It's just a few clicks to find out.

Maybe now is the time to have the tech guys come out and get you hooked up and connected???

I did run across where it showed Defender activated though if I go looking for it, I'll probably not find it.

And, just for the record, not all of the fans on the Windows 7 have been out for a year, just one of them. The others went out at some point though.

Hopefully, with the Windows 10 up on top of the table, I will be able to clean it more often. I just cannot get to the Windows 7 well enough anymore. Also, the case on the Windows 10 is much easier to open. Just unscrews; no sliding on a little track or anything like the Windows 7 which gave me trouble.

The 10 has a clear side but there are no lights in there at all. The 7 has a green side and I can see red lights in there and also white ones. Sometimes they scare me.

If I am not too lazy I will switch the equipment out again and leave it overnight to see if it connects. It is the "internet" button that won't go solid; just keeps blinking. Do I have to leave the computer on all night too?

No, you don't need to leave the computer on all night. But if the light is blinking, then I don't think anything is going to happen. Do you have any user manuals with the equipment that tells you what you're supposed to do?

It's really easy to find anything in Windows 10. In the white search box on the lower right, just type in Defender or whatever you want to find. You can also click on the white windows icon on the lower left. Scroll down to the Windows heading and Defender is listed there.

Does that include where to find saved games?

Does not look very easy to me!

One question for now. On the bottom right of the screen where the volume control icon is, why does it show this: 1-DELL ST2320L (2-AMD High Definition Audio Device)? Why would it show my monitor for my volume control? I did get a cheap sound card. I tried the solitaire but can't hear anything. I don't have any speakers plugged in, nor do I have my headphones plugged in. Should I be hearing something somewhere???

EDIT: Plugged in my headphones and now I can hear and see the sound card under the volume control.

But when I do dxdiag it is showing a different CPU than I ordered. It shows the K on the end even though I went for the same one but without the K.
Also, weird computer name??
And, System Manufacturer and System Model both say: to be filled by OEM What does this mean?

I only wish, Marian!

Right click on the sound icon on the lower right and select Open Sound Settings. In there you can change your sound output. Make sure your sound card is selected as the output. I suspect what you're seeing is the fact that you are using an HDMI cable on the monitor. HDMI is capable of transmitting both sound and video. Make sure when you plug your speakers in, you plug into whichever output you have selected.

I have no idea about the CPU thing. All the K means is that the CPU is unlocked for people who want to overclock. As long as they didn't charge you for the K option, I wouldn't worry about it. I don't know what "weird computer name" means! I built my computer and the name is "Desktop and a bunch of numbers." System Manufacturer etc. is normal for a computer that is built by an individual or a place like EcollegePC. Mine says the same thing.

I could not change the sound output when I right clicked . It did not show any other options. It did change after I plugged the headphones in though.

I know what the K means (though I don't really know what overclocking means). I have a CPU with a K on this Windows 7 computer. I know I don't need it so I ordered different this time and reduced the price, however, I was not sure I was going to like what I ordered.

This is what it has according to the dxdiag: Intel Core i7-9700K CPU @ 3.60 GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.6 GHz
My invoice says (as ordered) Intel Core i7-9700 3.0 Ghz (4.7 Ghz Turbo) 12MB Cache Eight-Core

The weird computer name is like yours then. I never noticed one like that. Okay on the other. I thought maybe it should say something.

Thanks!

In this Windows 7 the computer name is personal but I didn't name it that I am aware of???

Also, those other things do have something in them, the name of the motherboard I think.

I seem to remember when I installed Steam on this computer that I had to put the computer name in there since I also had Steam installed on another computer. When I get to that on the Windows 10 should I put the name that is shown? Does it do some kind of verification or something? I don't want any issues with Steam. It is the next thing that I have been worrying about like crazy behind the internet itself.

No, don't use that weird name. You don't have to use any "official" names. Just name it what you want. Like "Windows 7 Account" and "Windows 10 Account." Or "Old Computer" and "New Computer." All that is doing is identifying which computer you're downloading to.

If it's important to you that your computer has a better name, just right click that white windows icon on the lower left and click on System. In the screen, you can rename your PC.

There are some things that being worried about is OK. The crazy behind the internet isn't one of them!

Nothing to apologize for, and yes I did enjoy the game.
I disagree about the excitement though. A new game computer is always exciting.


It's so quick and easy to change the name that you might have done it when you first got the computer and then forgot.
From what Draclvr said, it's even easy to do in Windows 10.


I don't know why they'd ship a different processor from what you ordered unless they were out of the one you ordered or it was just a mistake. If they charged you the same price as for what you ordered, it sounds like you came out ahead though.


It means running the processor at a faster speed than the default. The overclocking controls are in the motherboard BIOS/Setup. People who overclock have to watch their processor temperatures so they don't get too high, and may have to replace their CPU cooler with a more efficient one that can handle the extra heat. As for why they do it, it's to make the computer run faster, maybe to get impossibly high frame rates at impossibly high resolutions in demanding games or benchmarks, maybe for bragging rights on forums, or maybe just to see if they can.

Draclvr, maybe you can let me know where/how to check if that Defender is activated or not. Yesterday I'm sure I saw it say it was but today I can't see that and under Windows Security there is a yellow warning sign by the "virus and threat protection" and "account protection". The "firewall & network" is okay with a green check.

Glad you enjoyed the game Jenny!

Click on the white windows icon on the lower left; click on settings (the gear looking icon); click on update and security. In the list on the left, click on Windows Security. Let me know what it says there. Have you installed Norton yet? If not, it's probably just wanting you to update the settings or run a scan with Defender. It may also be wanting you to set up your OneDrive account. That is free cloud storage you have. The Account protection may be asking you to set up secure sign-in. I use a Microsoft Account password, but I have it set to bypass that when I boot up as I'm the only one who uses this computer.

It says what I wrote above. It brings me to the same place I was.

I have not installed Norton yet because of my connection problem though I think I'm going to have to do that so I'll feel a little more secure on there.

Do I have to set up a OneDrive account?

Do I have to set up a secure sign-in?

Is it really normal not to have any lights at all inside of the computer?

No, you don't have to set up a One Drive account. I use mine a lot, but there is no requirement to.

No, you don't have to set up a secure sign-in.

Unless your motherboard or components have RGB (red/green/blue LED) features, there won't be any lights inside. I have a case with RGB features, so I have LOTS of light inside my computer. But there are no lights on any of the components. The gamer I recently built with my grandson had a motherboard with RGB features - I really liked it as one set would indicate what was causing a problem. White meant a RAM problem, red a video card problem and blue meant something else which I don't remember. It was invaluable during the build!

Okay thanks.

I looked at that motherboard that you suggested but did not go with it. It was one of the things giving me a "decision making headache" so I eliminated it from my brain. I stuck with the one in the "build" on eCollege: ASRock Z390 Pro4 (Intel Z390, HDMI, 2xPCI-E, 2xM.2, 6xSATA, 4xDDR4). It is weird having no lights. I feel like something isn't working.

By the way, when I said " It is the next thing that I have been worrying about like crazy behind the internet itself." I meant my first big worry was about the internet and my second big worry was about Steam. (The order of my worrying.)

Maybe it's just complaining because the virus definitions haven't been updated, or because you haven't run a scan recently.

Here's a website that might help
https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-activate-Windows-Defender-on-Windows-10?share=1

Ah, I misread that, oldbroad! But there IS a lot of crazy behind the internet!

I got my Norton on there.

How the heck do I set Firefox as my default. I've checked it but it doesn't take. I've gone in to settings and "choose defaults by app" but how do I get it to set as default?

Ah! Got it!

You beat me to it!

Bravo to YOU, oldbroad !!
I think you are doing wonderfully well dealing with all the ins & outs of setting up a new machine

I am miserable Mad! Not. fun. at. all.!

Have you taken a peek at your Windows 10 yet?

I think oldbroad is doing really well too... miserable or not!

And I know a lot of people who would jump at the chance to be miserable with a new computer.

So do I, Marian!

I think oldbroad just has too much to deal with at once.
Not only learning where to find things in a new operating system, and setting everything up both on the hardware and the software side, but she has the Internet problem hanging over her, which isn't fun for anyone.

Indeed. My absolute LEAST favorite thing is dealing with networking and internet issues.

Yes, I've had a brief foray into my Win10, oldbroad, and managed, but it's not the complete deal as yet and still requires more "techie" tweaking.
(A good excuse to keep it on hold a while longer, if you ask me !! )

Thanks everyone. I'm trying. I did get Steam set up so one more major worry down. Still have to do GOG and Big Fish as well as a good number of other things. I'm waiting for help with Malwarebytes. According to my invoice I can use it on 3 pc's but the download link I had is no longer good. I also don't seem to be able to download my MSN email app and will probably have to call them. Maybe it is only for one computer or not available for Windows 10. I don't know. It's the easiest email system I've used though so I'd like to keep it even though I have to pay for it.

Yes, Jenny is right about the internet. I really, strongly, dislike talking on the phone and really worry that they may have to do some rewiring or something inside my home. My home is too cluttered and too filthy! Also, the problem of actually getting my Windows 7 taken somewhere. Those are my 2 biggest worries. I want to finish playing Secret Files Tunguska before I disconnect it. I'm at the end of the game. And I want to back some stuff up. Also, really would like the Windows 10 more or less set up, so internet first I guess so I can use it without worry.

The Windows updates today had my Windows 7 temps going up near 80.

Mad, I hope you'll eventually get used to it as I hope I will. To me Windows 10 feels like one big Microsoft advertisement!

Those are really high temperatures for a processor.



You might want to consider using Classic Shell to make Windows 10 look more like Windows 7.
http://classicshell.net/

Or here are a few websites that tell you how to make Windows 10 look like Windows 7:

https://windowsclassroom.com/make-windows-10-look-like-windows-7/
https://www.howtogeek.com/277448/how-to-make-windows-10-look-and-act-more-like-windows-7/
https://www.howtogeek.com/197586/how-to-make-the-windows-10-start-menu-look-more-like-windows-7/

If nothing else, I'd recommend the last one, which tells you how to unpin the junk from the Start Menu.

I know... they put so much [blip] in the start menu. I always immediately unpin everything but Mail, Weather, Calendar and News. Then I add in my own shortcuts. At least, it's nothing more than "right click/unpin."

Thanks Jenny and Draclvr! I haven't looked at most of it yet but it is there every time I click. Not sure if it's something on my computer already or something they're urging me to get. There will be time to deal with that later though.

What is "there" and where are you clicking? Are you talking about click on the white windows icon? That's kinda/sorta the old "start" button. I use the tiles for things I don't want to keep in my task bar, but don't want to have to scroll down in the alphabetical list on the left. It's very easy to customize when you get to where you want to mess around in it. There is nothing to buy, unless you want to purchase Office. All those tiles are are links just like on your desktop.

https://www.howtogeek.com/197836/8-ways-to-customize-the-windows-10-start-menu/

oldbroad ....

My "part installed" Win10 looks surprisingly quite like Win7 - but my Son in Law had promised he would set it up so it did.

I have no doubt at all, however, that I'll somehow manage to get lost and confused when I am forced to use it

And if you do, just ask here! As I told oldbroad, I can do Windows 10 in my sleep and can help you navigate it.

I'm getting extremely frustrated at the moment with my Office product. Can't I have document that are NOT on OneDrive? I do not want all of my documents out in the freaking cloud somewhere. I just want to save them as word docs to "my documents" and be able to open and close them without going online. If I have to go online for this stuff then this was a waste of my money!

Do you have any idea how this works? Also, if it does work, is there a way to create a shortcut on my desktop for my documents?

Still. Not. Happy. Or. Excited.!!!!

And, why is my everything I look at so light/bright looking? It is not my monitor as I never had this problem with it before. It's hard to look at some of the stuff.

Yes, I know how to deal with this! Did you install Microsoft Office from a disk you already had? Or are you using the 30 day trial of Office 365? If you're not going to purchase Office 365, I would suggest not using it. I would suggest using Word Pad. You can find it in the alphabetical list on the left in the white windows icon. It's under Windows Accessories.

To create a shortcut on your desktop for My Documents, just open up File Explorer - exactly the same as on Windows 7 - looks like a manilla file folder and should be in your taskbar. Right click on My Documents and in the drop-down menu - again, exactly like in Windows 7 - select Send To and then select Desktop.

I'm going to guess the "brightness" is the excellent video card you have instead of the old motherboard video on the XP computer. It's probably much crisper and clearer. You should be able to adjust the brightness of the monitor in your monitor settings. Do you have buttons or software on this monitor?

Well, turns out the Office is not installed yet. I ordered it and have the disc but because Windows 10 has all this [blip] on it (what I call the Microsoft Advertisements) I thought it was installed already. Emailed Mike and he said no, I have to install it, so hopefully that will solve my problem. We'll see. I have some Office program on the Windows 7 that I purchased from the Microsoft store a few years ago. I wasn't sure if I could put it on this computer or not. I'm hoping they'll "see" each other so my documents will all be available..
Well, it is not a disc; just a key.

I'll have to check on the monitor settings then. I had seen something in here (the 10 comp) about "night lights" or something. Thought it might be something to do with that. I don't remember it being like this with my Dell Win 7 that I bought it with.

Thanks for the shortcut info. I did know how to create it in Win 7; just wasn't sure where to do it from in Win 10.

You will find that many, many of the basics are exactly like Windows 7. Many of the sub menus are even the same.

I'm still using Office 2010 on my Windows 10.

What Office did you buy? You will probably have to download it or activate it with that key. And no, that won't solve your problem. In the new Office products, the default is to save to your One Drive as that is what most people do now. I don't unless it's something I want to share. But it's easy to change the default Save location. Just open up the File menu, select Options and select Save. In the next screen you can select your default save location. You'll have to scroll down a bit to get to the directions with my favorite - pictures!

https://www.intowindows.com/how-to-change-office-365-default-save-location/

And this explains Night Light in Windows 10.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=what+...3B89F7578594FCC6F&FORM=QBLH&sp=1

Be careful about that "night light" option.
It tints the entire screen yellowish or orangish and colors look bad.
It gradually tints your screen toward the orange/yellow end of the color spectrum as it gets later in the evening.

It doesn't dim the screen, which sounds like what you want to do since your monitor is too bright all the time. Dimming the screen is a different thing, and is usually done on your monitor and/or in your video card settings.

I've tried that "night light" or "nighttime" business and I really hate it.
Maybe because my eyes are sensitive to yellow, but it hurts my eyes more than the regular setting besides looking terrible.

I normally have the monitor brightness on my current monitor at 7% because it's a bright monitor.
My older monitor I had at 50%.

First, am I not allowed to type the word freakin? Why did I get blipped?

Argh, regarding the Office. Why do they think everybody wants all of their personal documents online somewhere? When I have the time (and internet) to look into all of these links you and Jenny have sent, I will. Can't do it right now. It is Office Home & Business 2019. On the Windows 7 I have 2016. I don't need to have everything online with it.

I am not going to try that "night light" thing. I just thought that might be what was causing my screen to look so light and bright. I'll look into that later too.

Thanks for all the help you are giving me and all the listening you are doing. I really don't have anybody to talk to/discuss things with/bounce things off of anymore.

We are very good at being bouncy!

They think everybody wants all their personal documents online somewhere because most people now DO want on-line storage for their documents. I am not one of them, but that's OK. I just store my stuff on a separate hard drive in my case. As I said, I'm still using Office 2010 on my Windows 10.

See if this helps you choose where you save your documents.

https://www.windowscentral.com/how-save-office-documents-pc-default-windows-10

I tried the Night setting and didn't much care for it either.

How can I get to the Excel, Word, and Power Point documents from my Win 7? When I browse in any of these it shows my other computer but says I cannot access it, that I may not have permission. If need be I can put what I really want in here by using my external drive I guess.

That would really be the easiest way to do it. To access the files on the other computer through your network can be done, but it involves changing some permissions and in my experience doesn't always work. You would also need to create Homegroups. See if this video helps.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...D756CADD&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT

Thanks. I'll check it out at some point. I did create something through my 2 Windows 7 machines but I'm not sure I want to do that here.

The first Amazon order for the cable is scheduled for delivery Wednesday??? Tried to cancel it again.

AT&T is coming out today. I'm a nervous wreck! I hope this won't be my last communication with you all!!

I wouldn't bother at this point. At worst you'll end up with an extra cable.


Good luck. I hope the tech is able to solve your Internet problems.

Good luck, oldbroad!

And from me, too, oldbroad ....

Well shoot. I posted but must have missed hitting the post button.

The guy came and left but is still sitting outside (since a 1/2 ago). I wish he would drive away so I can get back in my pajamas and drink my morning coffee and tea which I was too nervous to drink.

He installed a new (one piece) router/modem. My old router and modem were separate pieces. So far, so good.

I inquired about fiber service (you know, just in case). He said that they would just run a cable from the pole to my house and drill a hole for the jack, and that they would not have to do anything with my phone box or inside wires at all. That puts my mind at ease about that.

Please keep wishing me luck that this does keep working though!

Ooh, he finally left. Time to change.

Next big item on the agenda is trying to get the Windows 7 cleaned and fans replaced. Smaller items include trying to get my documents on this computer as well as numerous other miscellaneous things that I am not as concerned about.

Brilliant news about your Tech Visitor !!

Excellent news! I did not think it would be as bad as you were thinking it could be, and I am very glad to hear that it was not. Fingers crossed that it all continues to run smoothly.

Thanks Mad and Marian. I know I over worry about everything. That is just me. Several years ago I served on jury duty. We spent a lot of time in the jury room (going back and forth between the court room and jury room). I was constantly in the washroom; like every 5 minutes. The other jurors probably thought I had a drug problem or something but I was just nervous.

Are you going to get fiber then?
If you continue to have connectivity problems even with the new router/modem, it may be because of the old copper cabling between your house and the pole, and getting a new fiber cable would fix that.

Oh, this just makes me so happy for you! And SOOOO glad to hear you got some new and much better equipment for your internet service. I have a feeling things are going to go a lot better now that you don't have that to worry about. All the rest is just details and time!

I'm not really planning on fiber Jenny but you never know. If I decide at some point this is too slow and/or for the reason you mention - If I still have problems.

Thanks Draclvr. Big sigh of relief. Surprised you didn't hear it down there!

In fact, feeling so good now that I put a call in to the computer guy I'm hoping will be able to help me with my Windows 7. Waiting for a call back to discuss the issues. I figured it was a good time to make the call, while I'm feeling some confidence.

EDIT: Taking computer in Monday morning.

Good for you! Won't it be nice to be able to put all of this stuff behind you?

Very much so Marian! Very much so!

It spikes like that at certain times when the computer is doing something, and sometimes when the computer is idle, though not that high.

Do you think that cleaning the computer and replacing the fans will help this or do you think it is something else going bad? Just your opinion; not asking for a diagnosis of something you can't see.

Yes I think that cleaning out dust and having working fans will help with your temperatures.
One other thing to think about is replacing the thermal compound between the processor and the heat sink in case it's dried out and no longer having good contact.
Your tech should be able to figure out if it's necessary to replace the thermal compound or not.

I'd say 99% that cleaning out dust and having all the fans working - in addition to getting it out of that confined space - will work wonders.

Thanks!

Jenny, I tried to mention that to the guy when I talked to him on the phone but couldn't remember the name of it. I wrote it down now so I can I ask him about that.

Drac, it will go back to the confined space. I don't have anyplace else to put that one.

When I thought the fan on the side of the case wasn't working either (which I'm not sure about it again) I asked Mike about it and he said that fan is more or less just for show. Does that sound right? It comes on sometimes but has been off now for the last week. It seems to stay off when it is cooler in my house if that even makes sense. Anyway, Mike never gave me the size of that fan so I don't have a replacement for it and am not sure if I should worry about that one. What do you think?

I am bringing some fans with me that I bought on Amazon for the top of the case and I'm hoping the one on the back is the same size. That one worked at the time I questioned the size of the top ones and I never did ask about it. If I don't have the right fans I'll have to leave the computer there longer.

I finally finished looking at all the links the two of you posted above for me. I think I learned a little something anyway.

Oh, how do I know what version of Windows 10 I have? In one of the links, there was something about the November update and mentioned about versions and the May update. Is there someplace I can find that information? Also, where do I find the place that shows my Windows copy is certified?

Yes. Airflow is usually front to back in a computer case, maybe a bit out the top. So if you have fans in the front or back of the case those are the most important.


Sounds like it's working if it's controlled with a thermostat.


https://www.howtogeek.com/236195/how-to-find-out-which-build-and-version-of-windows-10-you-have/

Thanks Jenny. Now that I looked at it, I think I actually saw the information the other day while looking around in here.

Right click the white Windows icon. Select System and it will tell you everything you need to know.

HELP!

Trying to LOOK at stuff in here and all of a sudden it is saying that I "purchased moments ago" the following: Candy Crush Saga, Twitter, and Netflix?????????

I didn't purchase anything. Is there going to be some charge on some credit card of mine somewhere???

I found this.

Not sure how it happens, but it does not sound like you will get charged for anything.

Thanks Marian. This is the problem with this Windows 10. I mentioned above that I don't know what's there and what is advertisements. How can I tell if an item is installed on my computer or if it is just trying to get me to buy or download stuff if I can't look at it without it all of a sudden saying I purchased it? One Big Advertisement!!

I think it shows that it is free but that is really not the point.

That Classic Windows shell that Jenny linked to will apparently make the computer look just like Windows 7.

I think a lot of this will get better over time once you get more acquainted with the OS. New stuff seems to bombard a person at first with a new OS but after a week or so it improves.

I am still on Windows 7 but will be upgrading to Windows 10 in the next few months. My biggest concern is whether or not my favorite games will still work. I believe that most of them will. I won't be getting rid of this computer either.

I took a look at the Classic Shell but I'm not sure it really looked just like Windows 7 either though. I would like to TRY to get used to this.

I'll be waiting to hear what YOU think of it!!

Oldbroad, you don't "purchase" any of these. If they are on your tiled start menu, just right click them and select uninstall. I did it with every one of them. They can't charge you anything if they don't have your credit card info.

It may not look "exactly" like it, but it comes close and is probably easier than going through all the tweaks to get rid of unwanted Windows 10 junk. I used Classic Shell or StartIsBack with Windows 8/8.1.
StartIsBack was closer to Windows 7, but you have to buy it.
https://www.startisback.com/
Classic Shell is free.
I thought using Classic Shell or StartIsBack was easier to configure than trying to go through all the tweaks to make Windows 8/8.1 usable.

If you don't want to use Classic Shell, you can check out the links we posted earlier for how to tweak Windows 10 to make it more usable:

https://windowsclassroom.com/make-windows-10-look-like-windows-7/
https://www.howtogeek.com/277448/how-to-make-windows-10-look-and-act-more-like-windows-7/
https://www.howtogeek.com/197586/how-to-make-the-windows-10-start-menu-look-more-like-windows-7/
https://www.howtogeek.com/197836/8-ways-to-customize-the-windows-10-start-menu/

The difference Draclvr, is that you know what you're looking at and are comfortable getting rid of it. I would like to know first what it is and it doesn't really let you LOOK at it to see. These things show up on both the right side as tiles and on the left in the list. Isn't the list on the left program files?

I'm not ruling anything out Jenny. It's just that what I saw didn't look much easier to me. I really don't know my way around Windows 7 very well either (some days I can find stuff and some days I can't) so I figure I should probably just try to learn Windows 10.

Yes, those are programs and apps on the left. The tiles on the right are nothing more than fancy shortcuts. I guess I'm talking about the Candy Crush and other junk they put there. To look at them, just click. You aren't going to be "buying" any of them unless you want to and give them your purchase information.Since you aren't signed in with a Microsoft account, you may not be able to use all of them... such as news or Mail. They aren't Microsoft advertisments, but stuff like popular games that a lot of people like. I hate them! I do use the Weather app - I have it pinned to my taskbar. And I use the Calendar app heavily - it's also pinned to my taskbar. If I don't put something on my calendar with a reminder to be sent to me, I can't remember anything! I also have the Snipping Tool and the Calculator - in Windows Accessories - pinned.


Want to take a screenshot? Just press the Windows key plus Printsceen key. A .jpg file is automatically placed in a file cleverly called Screenshots in your Pictured folder!

Now that's a nice feature!

Although it's also available in Windows 7, Split Screen is also a great feature. You can snap two windows to fill exactly half your screen on the right and left. This is what GreyFuss used to open up his failed hard drive in one screen and his documents folder on the new drive. Then he just dragged and dropped his files from the old drive to the new drive.

So anything on the left is installed and usable. Anything on the right MIGHT be installed and usable or MIGHT be something they want me to try. That's what I'm understanding and seeing. I did just "click" on a couple of the items (such as Netflix) to LOOK at what it might say and it started downloading (which I stopped) and then MY Microsoft purchased screen came up saying that I just recently purchased it. Apparently I am signed in and since I have purchased there I believe they do have a credit card on file.

Can you use that screenshot thing on game scenes?

I never got used to that Snap stuff. I used it one time but had trouble with it, therefore I didn't like it.

I do, however, like the calculator in Windows 10 and already pinned that to my task bar.

Mostly that junk on the right is links, sometimes links to things on your computer, sometimes links to things out on the Internet (some links to webpages, some links to downloads). Microsoft is deliberately trying to blur the difference between what's on your computer and what's out on the Internet.


Draclvr will have to tell you what might have happened there.

I suggest removing all those blinking squares on the right and not using that feature at all.
If I want a shortcut, I put it on the desktop or on the taskbar.

Some people recommend installing and setting up Windows 10 without being connected to the Internet. They say it's a much better experience without all those ads being thrown at you and trying to put you on a Microsoft account out on the Internet instead of a local login.


Sometimes. It varies with the game. You'll have to try and see.

None of the squares blink, at least not yet. I had removed at least one after looking at it (something about phones). The Netflix tile and the Candy Crush tile disappeared after I tried to look at them and stopped the downloads.

This is something I don't really understand at all:

"Some people recommend installing and setting up Windows 10 without being connected to the Internet. They say it's a much better experience without all those ads being thrown at you and trying to put you on a Microsoft account out on the Internet instead of a local login. "

I haven't logged into Windows 10 or seen anything asking me to. I am signed into my Office products but not into the Cloud. This is the kind of stuff that is beyond my understanding!!

I have to log into Windows every time I start the computer, whether it was Vista, Win7, Win8, or Win10. Maybe because I have "Pro" versions it does not automatically go to the desktop when I start the computer. Automatic login is a security issue if you have an administrator account .

It sounds like the person who built the computer for you may have set it up with automatic login to desktop. You should probably either give your account a password or create a limited account with the automatic login.
https://www.howtogeek.com/220660/why-you-shouldn%E2%80%99t-automatically-log-into-your-windows-pc/

I have Windows 7 Pro and I don't have to log into Windows when I start the computer.

Is it an account with administrator privileges, Marian?
If so, check the howtogeek link above.

When I log in there is a picture that comes up that is some picture that I did set in some old computer years ago but don't even know what it is actually associated with, apparently Microsoft somehow, like email or something. I was looking for someplace the other day to change the picture but never found what I was looking for. Well, I think I know where but don't have any other picture to use.

I've never had a password to log in to any computer and am actually afraid to have one (yes, another thing I am afraid of) as with my luck, I will end up locked out of my own computer.

More stuff I don't understand about:

"Automatic login is a security issue if you have an administrator account ." and
"You should probably either give your account a password or create a limited account with the automatic login."

I will go read the link to see if it clears anything up for me though.

Thanks!

Yes it is, Jenny, and I will check out the link you provided.

I also have a Windows 10 Pro CD sitting here, waiting to be used. I still haven't decided whether to use it to upgrade this computer or to buy a new computer. Weighing the pros and cons and figuring out what would be the most cost effective in the long run. I will probably just keep this one as is and get another computer but that will also depend on financial considerations.

I was supposed to take my computer in today to this guy and he just called and said that he had to cancel on me, that he had to do something else. Then he said that he thinks I should find some place else to take it. I asked him why and he said that he thinks this will be a challenge that he doesn't want to get involved in right now??? What challenge? Clean and replace some fans. He said it would take an hour maybe.

I'm so disappointed. Up early and ready to go and now the only other place is Best Buy. It took so long for me to finally make the call and now this. I really hate dealing with this stuff!!

I am disappointed too, oldbroad. I really don't understand why he backed out at the last minute.

No wonder you hate dealing with this stuff. This guy does not sound very reliable and if he was a business, he'd be getting a bad review from me. I'm very lucky to have three small local computer businesses that do repairs etc within 10 miles of me. And none of them would do anything like this.


I guess if you want to take it to Best Buy, they will at least do the job without bailing out on you.

Thanks Marian and Draclvr.

It is supposedly this business here though it is run from his home in an area that I'm somewhat familiar with, having grown up just a mile or so south of where he is.

https://www.soaringeaglecs.com/
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=soaring+eagle+computer+services

I had contacted him a couple of times via email (4 years ago and 1 year ago) and he wanted to set up a phone interview which I thought was being kind of difficult instead of just answering my questions in the email. I never did call him back then. This was the first time I called him. I guess I was right. Difficult!

I had researched several places but the only 2 I feel comfortable with that I think would clean a computer is this guy and Best Buy. Does Best Buy clean computers?

Since I'm up and ready to go, I was going to call Best Buy but my brother decided he should just go there and ask them in person if they'll do the work since he is going out in that direction anyway. I guess I have to bring my own fans to Best Buy also, which is fine. I just don't know if the fan in back is the same size as the fans on top and if there is a fan inside that I cannot see? I know the side fan is bigger but I am not worried about it.

Also, 4 years ago he mentioned upgrading to Windows 10 and when I talked to him on the phone last week that was the first thing out of his mouth when I said it was a Windows 7 computer. I told him I have a Windows 10 but want to keep the Windows 7 and explained that I'm a gamer and also have a Windows XP that I use. He didn't seem to understand that though.

I would sure think that Best Buy would be willing to clean the computer. Let us know what your brother finds out.

They thought he meant cleaning up files or something. We're just going to bring it in and see what happens I guess. I'm so sick of this life, I don't even care anymore!

I would tape a piece of paper to the computer telling what's wrong with it.
Something like "computer runs hot, needs dust cleaned out, non-working fans replaced, possibly new thermal paste."

That's a good idea, Jenny.

Yes, thank you. I already wrote a list out. I do believe my brother corrected the person.
I'm sorry. I'm having a bad day all around today.

I've been gone all day and just got home and checked this thread. oldbroad, I can look up what size your fans are if you can tell me which case you have? If you don't have the paperwork, it should have something on the case itself.

Thanks Draclvr. I emailed Mike. He said there are 4 fans, all 120mm. The side fan is bigger (I don't know the size) but I'm not going to worry about that one. I have 5 - 120mm fans that I purchased from Amazon.

Then you should be good to go. As I've said before, where else can you get personal customer service like Mike gives!

My brother was going to just take my computer in to Best Buy this morning but I told him that when I had contacted them last year they said to call 20 minutes ahead, so I called. Good thing. Nobody would have been available right now, so I set up an appointment for Friday morning 10:00.

They check it out first, give you an estimate and write up the paperwork, and then you have to pay BEFORE they do anything with it. I've never heard of such a thing. I'm trusting them with my expensive computer, any sensitive documents that are in it, and I have to PAY to leave it there with them. Wow!

I know they will be probably 3 times more expensive than the other guy would have but my other option (in my eyes even though this may not be true) is to not be able to use an otherwise good computer just because of some dirt and fans.

Have I mentioned how much I hate dealing with this stuff?

You MAY have mentioned this!

My take on this is that you should absolutely make sure this WIndows 7 computer is running happily for a long time. You'll just have to take it off the internet next February... or January, I can't remember. As much as I would loathe taking a computer to Best Buy, the other guy sounds WAAAAY too unreliable to me. And the fact that he questioned why you would want to have different computers available for gaming tells me he's also a little clueless.

Your appointment for 10:00 Friday morning sounds pretty good to me. I think they have a rather large problem with people not paying and that's why they want payment up front.

Draclvr - my paperwork says: Apevia Black/Green X-Dreamer 4 (4 5.25, 5 3.5) 5 Fans

Mike told me the 4 fans were all 120mm but the guy at Best Buy was saying the one on the back is smaller and won't know about the one in front until he opens it up. What do say? Just curious. It doesn't change anything really. The Best Buy charge won't change. They were not much more expensive than the other guy would be and maybe even less expensive if the other guy took longer than he thought it might. It should be ready for pick up in a few days. I can't wait. I have some game series installed on there that I'm waiting to get back to playing.

Is that the Windows 7 computer or the Windows 10 computer?

I looked it up, oldbroad, and Mike is correct. They are all 120 mm fans. The guy at BB is probably used to the rear fan being an 80 mm which is more common. Not to worry... they'll figure it out. Hope you get that Windows 7 computer back quickly then! Sounds like it might be a blessing that the other guy bailed on you.

Thanks Draclvr. The back fan does look smaller, I think because the venting area is smaller.

The Windows 7 computer Jenny. The Windows 10 case is: Cooler Master MB600L (1 5.25 2 2.5 3 3.5) Fan, Audio/USB 3.0. He added 2 x 120mm case fans in front.

Still waiting for my Windows 7. This is why I did not want to take it anyplace without having my new computer. I have no other means of on-line access. I'd be climbing the walls by now.

Last update on my first order of the cable I needed from Amazon. Still not received. Order status shows "on the way". If you track it, it shows "your package may be lost". Going on USPS tracking it shows they are waiting for the package from Amazon. So, it is officially lost in LIMBO somewhere. I did contact support but they could not help with the order status issue. They just said it wasn't charged on my credit card so not to worry.

Yeah, I'd not worry about it as long as you're not charged. Have you tried a game on the new computer yet?

The only games I've played so far on the new computer are a casual Halloween game, and currently a Match 3 Halloween themed game, and The Mystery of the Druids. Nothing to test out my video card.

I have a question regarding games that recommend the SSD drive. I have my games set to download to my D drive which is a 6TB regular hard drive. My C drive is a 2TB SSD drive. For a game that recommends the SSD drive, does it need to be downloaded onto the SSD drive then? I'm assuming yes, but just asking. It is just a matter of remembering to choose that drive when I download (and remembering which games recommend it).

Yes, download games to the SSD. That is a lot of storage! I have a 1 TB SSD even with tons of photos and huge RPG and FPS games will never fill it up!

If you're using a downloader or client, configure it to install games on the SSD before installing or downloading the game.
It doesn't matter where you download if the client actually installs the game folder to somewhere else, so the client has to be configured ahead of time.

For example, with a Big Fish game you'd configure the client to install games to the desired location before downloading or installing anything. Of course Big Fish games have low requirements and wouldn't need an SSD.

If you're just downloading the installation files through your browser, the way you do from Fireflower and itch.io (and have the option to do from GOG), and aren't using a client or downloader, it doesn't matter where you download the files. During the installation you have to tell the game where to install.

Oh, just one more Amazon note that I forgot. At some point during this, my password no longer worked and I had to change it. I think I may have marked an email from them as "junk" because I thought that was what it was. It didn't look right to me. Then, poof, I couldn't get in there and had to change my password (which wasn't a bad thing to do anyway).

Well, two more things. I think the order may have gotten screwed up because the whole order was paid for with points. Maybe the system didn't know what to do with the $ .00 order. When the order got messed up though, I used the points on a different order so I didn't lose my points. I am waiting for my credit card statement though to see what it shows.

Yes Draclvr. I was actually thinking of 2 - 4TB regular hard drives but then went with the 2 SSD and 6 regular. I prefer more to not enough, and I am not into uninstalling games too often. I went for the 32 GB of Ram also. I am not much on upgrading so better to just get it now. Hopefully, nothing will break down too soon!

Jenny, I hope you are well. (Haven't seen you here for a few days.)

I'm not sure I'm following what you mean. This is what I did. Please clarify for me from this information. I have all 3 clients (Big FIsh, GOG Galaxy, and Steam) downloaded to the SSD drive. I went into each of them and selected to have each of them download all games to the regular hard drive. When you select a game to install (on Steam at least) you can direct that particular game back to the SSD drive which is what I figured I would do. Won't that work? At this time, I think I only have one game that recommended the SSD.

I don't have Steam and I don't use Galaxy for GOG. As long as the installation process for the individual game asks where to install the game, the game should install where you tell it to. However the Big Fish Game Client installs the game automatically to wherever you have the client set to install games.

Great! Thanks Jenny!

Steam will automatically install to the D drive I have it set to, but, it does give you the option to change it if you want to, per game.

Sounds like you're all set with Steam then.
Galaxy may be similar to Steam. You'll have to check.

Big Fish may be the only one that has the problem with having to configure the installation folder ahead of time.

Okay, now I'm nervous. Best Buy never called to say the computer was ready. I checked the ticket online 2 days ago and it just said they had the computer, nothing done with it. My brother was in the area there today so he stopped in and they said the computer was ready so he brought it home. I just hooked it up and while waiting for it to boot up I'm ALMOST certain I saw a tiny notice in the lower right corner of my screen that said something like "this is not a genuine copy of windows". Well, my computer did have a genuine copy of windows when it went into Best Buy. Now it is installing a bunch of device driver software or something. How do I make sure they didn't make some changes in my computer?

Oh, dear. It sounds to me like they reinstalled the operating system. But you didn't take it to them to do that... just to clean out the dust and replace the fans. Wait until everything is up and running and make sure all is well and all your stuff is there.

Well, so far my Norton isn't working. I clicked to "fix" and it started downloading updates but then it got hung up. I'm not sure what to do with that. Also, they apparently let a bunch of old updates install or try to install yesterday. There are a bunch of "failed" updates and then "successful" ones which may be the same ones that had failed. At least one of them is but I didn't look at all of them yet. More updates downloaded and 4 of them were published years ago. Probably something I did not install. Three of them, I'm sure I had installed prior to bringing the computer in but I am now installing those 3 again. One of the old updates that I never did but that now shows in failed and successful as of 10/23 is regarding my card reader which is saying it is unusable because it is marked "safe to remove device but the device hasn't been removed"?? After the updates install and I restart the computer, I'll look around some more and see if I can get Norton working again.

My Product Key is okay and I don't see anything else YET that seems wrong.

I don't understand whether they actually cleaned the dust out of the computer.
Is it still running hot?
Do you have a receipt where they say what they did with it?

Best Buy probably gets a lot of computers to fix, and could easily get them confused.

If I had no option but to take a computer to Best Buy to have the hardware checked, I'd actually remove the hard drive first. They can boot diagnostic software off a DVD or USB drive and run benchmarks to check temperatures. They don't need the hard drive for that.


Got "hung up" because of your Internet stalling or "hung up" while installing the updates. It may need a lot of time to install certain updates.


I wonder if it's one of those updates that people don't install because it conflicts with their hardware (for example with your card reader). If you can get the number of the update, look it up in a web search and see if there are problems with it. It may be that your card reader would start working again if you removed the update and blocked it from re-downloadin. Check what that update is for.

I'd sure be checking that receipt and also making sure they did what you actually TOLD them to do. I have to say, I like Jenny's idea of just removing the hard drive so they aren't temped to mess with it. Are the games you were playing and your progress still there?

You might check to see if you have any restore points from right before Best Buy did whatever they did to the hard drive. If your card reader is still non-responsive after the "updates" finish, going back to a restore point might bring it back. Of course if you don't have any restore points or the ones you have are from too long ago, that's not going to be a viable option.

It's sounding a lot like since your computer didn't have anything really wrong with it, that they gave it to a new hire who was a trainee and had him do "the usual" to it. That might include putting their own antivirus on it for a scan, which would have disabled Norton, and then uninstalling their scanner afterwards. If a new hire didn't know enough to run removal software after uninstalling whatever antivirus scanner they used, to remove whatever that scanner left in the registry, that could prevent Norton from working.

The problem with Norton may be related to the problem with the card reader, but it's hard to say for sure.

If I could remove a hard drive I could clean the computer and replace the fans myself.

Norton had shown some error like when a game crashes and it says it's encountered an error and if there's a fix they'll notify you or something like that. It is fine now after restarting the computer. It shows that it is current and up to date and that my computer is secure. I ran a quick scan also.

What Best Buy says they did is: cleaned dust and hair, installed the 4 small fans, tested the hard drive, memory, motherboard, and processor. "All hardware passed." They don't say anything about the thermal paste though I had it listed on my note that was taped to the computer and verbally mentioned it when we dropped it off.

The temps seem to be rising again. They started in the low 30's and are now in the mid 40's with spikes up to the upper 50's here and there. I am not using the computer. Just monitoring it right now.

I don't use the card reader anymore but in the right hand corner when you open up the box to see hidden items, there is the icon there that says "safely remove hardware & eject media". Clicking on it shows: eject Alcor Micro USB 2.0 card reader". That didn't go away after 2 computer restarts. There isn't anything in the reader that I can see to remove.

Yeah I figured. That's why I didn't mention it before you took the computer in.
But if "I" had to take a computer to Best Buy I'd definitely remove the hard drive first.


Well that sounds good. At least they didn't mess that up.


So they did part of what you asked them to do (the easiest part) and added on their "usual service" that you didn't ask them to do and had nothing to do with the computer heating up. They may have tried installing all the latest Windows updates for you and then had many fail (as often happens on old Windows installations) and finally given up on getting them all in, figuring Windows could do that and they just wanted the computer finished and out of the shop.


Is that any better at all?
If not, and you want the thermal paste replaced, you might want to think about finding some place other than Best Buy to do it.


Since you don't use it anymore, you can just disable it in Device Manager so it won't show up in your taskbar corner.

I was wondering the same... if those temps are any better. I know you posted what they were, but I can't remember. Just a thought here... Do you have it back in the old cramped space? If so, what would you think of setting it on your table and seeing if you get the same temperature results? PITA, I know, but I've always been concerned about that tight space for this kind of computer. How much space is behind the computer where the main exhaust fan is?

The temps in the 30's are better I think. I'm pretty sure they were constantly in the 40's before. The minimum and maximum temps showing are 28, 29, 29, & 30 up to 56, 56, 59, & 60. Since I didn't monitor the temps before the computer started really overheating, I don't know if those spikes here and there are normal or not. I do know that it spiked higher than that prior to Best Buy when the Windows updates were installing a few weeks ago. All in all, I feel these temps are much better.

Yes, it is back in the old cramped space. I'm not moving it just to test it. The computer is more or less sideways under the desk so that the back end is more towards open space. The top, however, only has a couple of inches. I might try to see if I can move some junk around and at least pull the computer out a bit more when I am using it and then push it back when I shut it down. It will be crooked then though, with part of it up on the rug and part of it still on the wood surface. (It is on the little wheelie cart, not directly on the floor.) I'll see.

I wonder if I uninstall that Alcor Micro update if it will stop the message, or if I plug my external drive in what will happen since that also gives the message for safe removal.

Anyway, everything else seems okay with it. Somehow when I set up a network between my old Dell 7 and this eCollege 7 (and also used a transfer cable), I ended up with the Dell 7 C drive showing on my eCollege 7. There was also some issue showing about my back up. Those items seem to be gone now. I know there was something in my trash from it and I was afraid to empty the trash, but it is empty now. I don't know if I'm describing that right but I think that's what it was. Anyway, I consider that a good thing.

Whatever you can do to help the poor thing "breathe" will help! I was just suggesting setting it up someplace open to help identify temperature issues. Even if you could pull it out all the way just to see if that would help, it might tell you more about what's going on.

All the other stuff sounds like good news. I'm sure it's nice to have your old "baby" back!

Yes, I know Draclvr. I'll see what I can do. The temps still are all over the place though and that worries me. I'm almost afraid to use it. I downloaded a bunch of Big Fish games to it a few months ago in preparation for going off line. I hope I'll be able to play them in there. I also downloaded quite a few Steam games that I am hoping to get to play in there before going off line. Some GOG too. I'm not really sure it's true that I'll be able to play those games offline. I haven't tried it yet, but in this Windows 10, the Galaxy opens up every time I play. I know Big Fish does that too but that I can play those off line so, time will tell I guess.

I think I will have to use the Windows 7 sparingly and just to play from now on, and not be leaving it on all day anymore. Might as well get used to not being online in there anyway.

It's definitely true that you will be able to play the GOG games offline.

Marian, have you tried playing games that are installed in your Galaxy when you were not connected to the internet?

I do use Galaxy to download most of my games. And yes, when I launch the games from their game directory on my hard drive without using Galaxy, they all start up and run just fine, with or without the internet.

I've been playing Mystery of the Druids and using the desktop game icon shortcut and it opens up the Galaxy. Since I'm connected to the internet, I can't tell what it will do if I disconnect and I guess I just don't feel like testing it if I don't have to. One day I'll see.

Thanks.

I don't use Galaxy and I don't know if Galaxy itself will complain if there's no Internet connection.
But you can always make your own desktop shortcut to the game's .exe, and from what Marian says you won't need an Internet connection even if the game was installed by Galaxy.

That's exactly what I do with Galaxy to play games. It's very convenient for downloading large files, but very annoying when it starts to install an update when I just want to play!

Thanks Marian, Jenny, and Draclvr. Jenny, I know you mentioned doing that before when discussing Big Fish. I guess I will have to stop being so lazy and give that a try! I have to go to where the game is installed right?

There's more than one way to do it, but I think that's the easiest.
Go to the game folder
Locate the game's .exe
Right-click the game's .exe and choose Send To > Desktop Create Shortcut

After the shortcut is on the desktop, you can rename the shortcut if you want. Right-click the shortcut and choose Rename, then type in the new name.
(or you can also sometimes just click the text under the shortcut and get it to highlight, and once that text is highlighted you can type in the new name, but this can be fiddly and you can inadvertently open the game instead of highlighting the shortcut text if your hand is shaky that day).

Great. Thanks!